Let’s sew the lining for our jackets today! This is going to seem very familiar, as we’ll construct the lining just like we did the jacket, minus the topstitching and hood zipper. So it’s going to be pretty easy to sew it all up! After this step is done, we’ll be very close to finishing our coats. All we will need to do is join the lining to the jacket, create our elastic waistline, and sew up the hem!
Some thoughts on lining
Thread: You may want to change your thread colour to match the colour of your lining. For my jacket, the lining is white, and the main jacket is peachy pink, so that’s close enough in my books especially as I am aiming to get posts up quickly. If I were using a very different colour for my lining, I’d change the thread to match. Although, if you’re low on thread, you may want to save your main thread for the jacket, and use something different for the lining. I’m curious – how many people change their thread colour to sew their lining, every time?
Needles: You might want to change your needle for sewing the lining – especially if it’s been a while since you used a fresh needle! A dull needle can cause snags and pulls. You may have seen a vertical snag line appear across your fabric while sewing a lining seam – using a dull needle or an unsuitable needle can cause that! (My lining fabric is fairly thick compared to say, a rayon lining, so I didn’t change my needle.)
Ironing: Remember to adjust the heat setting on your iron for the lining fabric, if necessary. It’s easy to forget if you’re sewing both the main fabric and the lining and use the same temperature for everything. Careful – too hot of an iron can melt, scorch, or leave an iron-shaped imprint on your lining fabric!
Want to catch up on previous Sew-Along posts? Click the links below to read more:
- Join the Minoru Sew-Along: January 16th, 2012! (Find the Sew-Along badge here, too!)
- Why is the Minoru Jacket Pattern Not Suitable for Plaid Fabric?
- Guest Post: Caroline on Sewing Waterproof Outerwear
- Minoru Jacket Q & A
- Fabric Recommendations for the Minoru Jacket
- A Full Bust Adjustment on the Minoru Jacket, Courtesy of Alana
- Sew-Along Speed: How Fast Do You Want to Go?
- My Minoru Jacket Fabric Choices
- Five Ways to Tell if Your Fabric Is Water-Resistant
- Minoru Inspiration: Dots!
- Update: Minoru Sew-Along Starts on Monday!
- The Very First Minoru Muslin
- Minoru Sew-Along #1: Let’s Get Started!
- Minoru Sew-Along #2: Sewing Sleeves and Topstitching Tips
- What is Triple Stitch?
- Minoru Sew-Along #3: Gathering!
- How to Make Your Own Piping
- Minoru Sew-Along #4: Sewing the Hood
- Minoru Sew-Along #5: A Change in the Line-Up and Checking In
- Minoru Sew-Along #6: The Secret Hood Zipper
- Minoru Sew-Along #7: Sewing the Hood to the Collar (Quick Post!)
- Minoru Sew-Along #8: We Finally Get to Pull the Gathers!
- Adding Pockets to the Minoru Jacket: Amy’s Awesome Tutorial
- Minoru Sew-Along #9: Front Plackets, Front Zipper
- Flap Pockets on the Minoru Jacket
- Minoru Sew-Along #10: All About Cuffs
- Minoru Sew-Along #11: Little Hidden Pockets
- Minoru Sew-Along #12: A Useful Hanging Loop
- How to Make a Chain Hanging Loop
Let’s start with sewing the sleeves to the back, then the fronts to the sleeves. (Forgot already what it was like doing it on the jacket fabric? Check out this post here for more details.)
After sewing these seams, if you’re concerned about your lining fraying along the seamlines, serging the edges will help prevent that. Or, stitch 1/4″ (6mm) away from the first row of stitching, and trim the seam allowances.
Next, we’ll sew the gathering stitches between the markings. (And remember, don’t pull the gathers yet! We’ll get to pull them very soon.)
Then we’ll sew the collar to the jacket lining, pulling up the gathers to fit. (I told you we would get to pull the gathering threads soon!)
If you’ve already sewn the jacket collar and were hoping for more stiffness, why not interface this collar piece? This is the collar piece that will show if you fold down the collar, but sits on the inside of the collar when it’s standing.
Topstitch the collar seam, with the seam allowances pressed upwards.
Sew the underarm seam and sideseam.
Sew the remaining two plackets to the lining front, leaving open about 4″ (10cm) from the bottom.
And topstitch this placket seam, from the very top to where you stopped stitching, 4″ from the bottom.
And that’s it for today. We have a lining!
In the next sewing step, we’ll start attaching the lining to our jackets. If you’re dying to see how it all goes together, you can slip the lining inside your jacket shell and try the whole thing on. (Not recommended if your lining is very delicate or likely to fray! In that case, it’s best to wait and not risk damaging the lining.)
If you’ve been saving all your sew-along sewing until this weekend, there’s plenty to catch up on here, so take your time and have fun with it! Happy sewing and have a good one!