Today we’ll sew the collar to the jacket neckline, sew the underarm and sideseam, and topstitch the underarm seam.
Note: If you’re wanting to put inseam pockets in your jacket, stop before sewing up the underarms and sideseams. No pocket tutorial as of yet, but it’s coming! (Unless there’s someone out there who already wrote one? Let me know if you’ve seen one, written a side-seam pocket tutorial yourself, or would like to!)
Want to catch up on previous Sew-Along posts? Click the links below to read more:
- Join the Minoru Sew-Along: January 16th, 2012! (Find the Sew-Along badge here, too!)
- Why is the Minoru Jacket Pattern Not Suitable for Plaid Fabric?
- Guest Post: Caroline on Sewing Waterproof Outerwear
- Minoru Jacket Q & A
- Fabric Recommendations for the Minoru Jacket
- A Full Bust Adjustment on the Minoru Jacket, Courtesy of Alana
- Sew-Along Speed: How Fast Do You Want to Go?
- My Minoru Jacket Fabric Choices
- Five Ways to Tell if Your Fabric Is Water-Resistant
- Minoru Inspiration: Dots!
- Update: Minoru Sew-Along Starts on Monday!
- The Very First Minoru Muslin
- Minoru Sew-Along #1: Let’s Get Started!
- Minoru Sew-Along #2: Sewing Sleeves and Topstitching Tips
- What is Triple Stitch?
- Minoru Sew-Along #3: Gathering!
- How to Make Your Own Piping
- Minoru Sew-Along #4: Sewing the Hood
- Minoru Sew-Along #5: A Change in the Line-Up and Checking In
- Minoru Sew-Along #6: The Secret Hood Zipper
- Minoru Sew-Along #7: Sewing the Hood to the Collar (Quick Post!)
You’ll need your collar (either the hood-and-collar combo we made the other day, or if you’re making View B, just the collar piece) and your jacket body.
Line up the collar along the top neckline, right sides together. (Someone asked about seeing the collar from the other side, this is it! You can see the zipper tape from the inside, but it’ll be hidden when the collar is completed.)
We’ll pin them together in three strategic places:
- Pin the centre of the collar to the centre of your jacket.
- Pin the edge of your collar to the edge of your jacket.
- Pin the notch in between.
Now, pull up the gathers in between the pins! Distribute the gathers evenly. If you’re unsure about the gathers, baste this seam first. Check the gathers, adjust if necessary, and then sew the seam for real.
Sew the collar to the jacket. Looks good!
If you did tailor’s tacks, you can take them out. I’m going to pull my little green threads out so they’re out of my way.
Trim the seam allowance, press it upwards towards the collar, and topstitch this seam. Don’t forget to topstitch the same way you did in this post!
Here’s how it will look so far:
Our jackets are going to look pretty good by the end of today, as we’re going to sew up the sideseams and underarms now! (Unless you want to add inseam pockets. In that case, don’t sew up the sides quite yet.)
Fold your jacket so it looks like the photo. Start with your jacket back facing you, right side up, and fold the jacket front over, lining up the sleeves and sideseams.
Pin along the sideseam and underarm seam, matching raglan seam intersections at front and back. (Yes, that’s my uncut lining fabric underneath! Still haven’t had a chance to cut all of the lining pieces…)
Stitch the sideseam and underarm seam as one. Or, if you’re thinking of making adjustments to the fit of the jacket at this point (perhaps the hip width, if you’re less of a pear-shape) baste this seam instead. Try on the jacket, adjust the seams to fit, and stitch the seam permanently.
Trim and press this seam towards the back. In the photo above, I’ve shown how I clipped it at the armhole so it turns and presses more easily. This next step is optional, but I like to topstitch the seam from the underarm down to the hemline. I feel like it gives it a sporty look and more durable sideseams.
It started to get dark while I was sewing, so that last photo is a little dim and blue-tinted.
And that’s it for the day! It’s sure been a busy week for us so far. I’m starting to like this peach jacket more and more! I had moments of doubt about the colour but now that it’s coming together, I’m liking the look! How do you feel about your jackets so far?
PS. I know I’m a bit behind on replying to comments. I’ll do my best to catch up by the end of the week, so you’re ready to go over the weekend. Thanks for understanding!