I love these cuffs. They’re a little different than your standard elastic cuffs. They’re meant to be loose, not cinched tight to the wrist, and they’re longer than you might think. They fall close to the middle of my hand. I love this, because when I’m cycling they keep my hands and wrists nice and warm without being uncomfortably tight.
That’s how I designed them – in my opinion, they look more modern than a typical outerwear-style elastic cuff. But you’re the one with complete creative control on your jacket, so if you’d prefer a tighter cuff, go for it!
If you’re unsure how much tighter to make your cuffs, measure a jacket from your wardrobe that you like, or test it in muslin.
Want to catch up on previous Sew-Along posts? Click the links below to read more:
- Join the Minoru Sew-Along: January 16th, 2012! (Find the Sew-Along badge here, too!)
- Why is the Minoru Jacket Pattern Not Suitable for Plaid Fabric?
- Guest Post: Caroline on Sewing Waterproof Outerwear
- Minoru Jacket Q & A
- Fabric Recommendations for the Minoru Jacket
- A Full Bust Adjustment on the Minoru Jacket, Courtesy of Alana
- Sew-Along Speed: How Fast Do You Want to Go?
- My Minoru Jacket Fabric Choices
- Five Ways to Tell if Your Fabric Is Water-Resistant
- Minoru Inspiration: Dots!
- Update: Minoru Sew-Along Starts on Monday!
- The Very First Minoru Muslin
- Minoru Sew-Along #1: Let’s Get Started!
- Minoru Sew-Along #2: Sewing Sleeves and Topstitching Tips
- What is Triple Stitch?
- Minoru Sew-Along #3: Gathering!
- How to Make Your Own Piping
- Minoru Sew-Along #4: Sewing the Hood
- Minoru Sew-Along #5: A Change in the Line-Up and Checking In
- Minoru Sew-Along #6: The Secret Hood Zipper
- Minoru Sew-Along #7: Sewing the Hood to the Collar (Quick Post!)
- Minoru Sew-Along #8: We Finally Get to Pull the Gathers!
- Adding Pockets to the Minoru Jacket: Amy’s Awesome Tutorial
- Minoru Sew-Along #9: Front Plackets, Front Zipper
Let’s get started on our cuffs! You’ll need your cuff fabric pieces, your half-finished jacket, and your 2″ wide elastic.
Take your fabric cuff pieces, and fold them right sides together, lining up the short raw edges.
Sew this seam, and press seam allowances open. Now fold the cuff in half, wrong sides together, lining up the long raw edges. We’re making a little tube out of fabric in this step.
Press the folded cuff flat.
Now, let’s cut our cuff elastic. Refer to the Elastic Guide in the instruction sheet, located on the front side, in the lower left corner.
Lap the ends of the elastic approximately 1/2″ and zigzag over the ends to secure.
I like to zigzag up and down a few times to make it really strong.
Insert elastic loop into folded cuff.
Now, we’ll baste the raw edges of the cuff together with gathering stitches. This part is a little tricky to do! Just go slowly, keep your needle down when adjusting your work, and keep the raw edges lined up with each other while making sure not to stitch over the elastic at all.
Sew a second row of gathering stitches close to the first. The second row is much easier than the first, simply stretch the cuff to straighten it out as you sew!
Now we have a neat little cuff, all ready to sew into our jackets. This is closer to how they’d construct cuffs in a factory setting. One person would assemble the cuff (and a couple hundred identical cuffs), then pass them on to the next person to sew cuffs into jackets.
Take your jacket, and arrange it so the sleeve cuff is facing you. Poke the sleeve cuff through the constructed cuff. Line up the underarm seam with the cuff seam, and match the notches on the other side. Pin the cuff to the sleeve at these two points.
Pull up the gathering stitches in between these points, and adjust the gathers to fit the sleeve opening. Sew the cuff to the sleeve.
Repeat with the second cuff. Look how nice they look!
- Worried about your gathers? Baste the cuff first, check the gathers, then stitch it.
- Sleeves too long? You can shorten the sleeves at this stage if you need to! Trim the sleeve before adding the cuff, then sew the cuff to the newly-shortened sleeve.
- Want a more gathered cuff on your next version of the jacket? Cut the cuff piece wider, but keep the elastic the same width, and it will look more gathered with more ‘scrunch.’
- Want completely un-gathered cuffs? Measure your sleeve opening, then cut your cuff pieces the same width and omit the elastic. You’ll have the look of a cuff, without gathers or elastic. A good option for thick and bulky fabrics!
- Are you a knitter? Wouldn’t it be amazing to knit matching cuffs for your jacket, and sew them on? You could probably skip the elastic (let me know if I’m wrong!) and it would be a lovely, professional touch. And warm! How about finishing the cuffs of a wool tweed Minoru Jacket with wool knit ribbing? I’d love to see that done up!