Today’s all about View B. If you’re making the ruffled Pendrell Blouse, this post is for you! View A and C sew-alongers, take a break and relax. The next sewing post will be for ALL views: A, B, and C!
We’re going to gather both of our ruffles – the seam ruffle and the sleeve ruffle – and attach the seam ruffle to the front-and-back section we made in Sew-Along Post #11. (The sleeve ruffle gets attached later on, in case you’re wondering!) I’ll also show you how to stretch the ruffles to create a different look.
Need to catch up on previous Sew-Along posts? Here are the links:
- Pendrell Sew-Along: Supply List, Schedule & Sew-Along Badge
- Pendrell Sew-Along #2: Prewashing your Fabric
- Pendrell Sew-Along #3: Measuring and Choosing Your Size
- Pendrell Sew-Along #4: Shortening the Blouse Length
- Pendrell Sew-Along #5: Altering The Hip and Waist
- Pendrell Sew-Along #6: Princess-Seam FBA (Full Bust Adjustment)
- Pendrell Sew-Along #7: Cutting Your Fabric
- Pendrell Sew-Along #8: Bonus Post! Cutting Scalloped-Edge Lace
- Pendrell Sew-Along #9: Checking In
- Pendrell Sew-Along #10: Underlining The Pendrell Blouse
- Pendrell Sew-Along #10.5: More on Underlining & Basting
- Pendrell Sew-Along #11: Sewing! Plus, Finishing Your Edges
- Pendrell Sew-Along #12: Constructing and Attaching the Draped Sleeve
First, grab your Sleeve Ruffle (4) and Seam Ruffle (5).
The process for gathering these pieces is exactly the same, so it doesn’t matter which ones you start with! I’ll follow the instruction sheet and start with the Sleeve Ruffle – the smaller, rounder piece.
Fold the Sleeve Ruffle in half, along the fold line, matching notches. I made a small snip at the fold line so it’s easy to fold along the line.
Fold along the fold line, matching notches. Pin at the top notch first, so that it’s aligned properly, and then pin all along the raw edges.
Then pin the edges together just above the fold line, as shown below:
Now pin all along the raw edges. If you’re worried about pin marks on your fabric, keep the pins within the seam allowances, 5/8″ (1.5cm) from the edge.
Baste along the raw edges of each piece. These basting lines are also going to be our gathering stitches, so leave long tails! We’re going to stitch two lines of basting stitches, and then pull them up to create gathers.
An easy way to sew gathers so they don’t show is to stitch the first line 1/2″ from the raw edge, and then stitch the second line halfway between this one and the raw edge. Here’s the first row of stitching:
Here’s the second line of gathering stitches. I’m aiming to keep the stitch line half way between the first line, and the edge of the fabric.
Repeat with the other Sleeve Ruffle piece.
Gently pull on both of the bobbin threads to gather the edge.
Before and after gathering:
Set aside the gathered Sleeve Ruffle pieces, we’ll attach them to the blouse later on. Repeat the gathering steps with the Seam Ruffle pieces:
Now, here’s where you have creative freedom! I’ve marked where the gathers stop, according to my sample blouses. But you can stretch these ruffles out as long as you want! Simply loosen the gathers, and spread the seam ruffle further down the princess seam.
Play around, and experiment with different lengths of ruffles. Originally, I was going to leave these ruffles extending way farther down the body, but liked the look of the smaller, tighter ruffle best. It’s up to you!
It’s easiest if you have a dress form to work with, but if not you can still test it out on yourself. Just be careful not to stretch out the neckline. The staystitching will help it keep its shape! Also, if your fabric is prone to fraying, then handle with care.
Once you’ve decided where you want the ruffles, let’s baste them to the front-back panel. It’s OK if you like them exactly where they’re designed to be! I wanted to give you suggestions and ideas to customize your blouse.
Pin the seam ruffle to the front-and-back panel, matching the notch to the shoulder seamline. Once this point is pinned, pin each end of the ruffle to its end point.
If you’re making the blouse exactly as designed, that point will be the circle markings. If you’re changing the seam ruffle length, be sure to make both sides of the blouse, left and right, the same length! Distribute the gathers evenly between end points, pulling up basting threads if the ruffle is too long, and releasing the gathers if the ruffle is too short.
Baste seam ruffle to blouse front and back. I like to baste in between the two rows of gathering stitches, adjusting the gathers as I go so there aren’t any obvious tucks or un-gathered sections.
Repeat with the other side of the blouse. Here’s what it will look like, at the end of these steps:
Here’s what it looks like so far, on Diana. It’s coming together and starting to look like a real blouse!
Any questions or tips to add to today’s post? Leave a comment below!