I’ve had this idea for a Saltspring camisole hack for a while now. When I like a pattern, I tend to imagine a million different versions and hacks. I love making the most of a pattern I love!
I first made a tank top variation of the Saltspring dress a few years back. I loved this top, and wore it a lot. For this version, I decided to go for a more delicate look. I envisioned spaghetti straps, a simple facing (instead of lining), and an extra gathered panel at the hemline. You could easily do this hack without the gathered panel for a super simple camisole. I’m planning on making a few of those too.
Here’s how I hacked the Saltspring dress to make this camisole!
- I started off with a 1″ (2.5cm) FBA. I outlined this during the sew-along here. Instead of keeping a dart, I closed it and transferred the fullness to the hemline. I’m going for an a-line shape in this tank so this was perfect. If you aren’t doing a FBA, you can simply slash and spread the pattern in a pie shape.
- To match the a-line shape of the front piece, I slash and spread the back by about an inch as well.
- I eliminated the seam allowance at center back to cut it on fold.
- I lengthened these pieces by 1″ (2.5cm) at the hemline.
- I drafted two rectangular panels for the hemline. To do this, I measured the length of the hem, and then drafted rectangles that were 1.5X this measurement. Hem allowance was 1″ (2.5cm), and seam allowance 5/8″ (1.5cm) as usual.
- I finished the neckline with 2.5″ (6.5cm) facings which I drafted by tracing the top edge of the tank pieces and then traced 2.5″ (6.5cm) from that edge.
- I raised the front neckline by 1″ (1.5cm) – this was just a personal preference, I wanted a higher neckline.
- Finally, instead of tie straps, I went for simple spaghetti straps. I used the same pattern piece and just cut two lengths instead of 4.
Here is what I ended up with:
In terms of construction, it was pretty straightforward. Here’s the rundown:
- Stay stitch neckline of bodice and facing. (Start at the center front and sew towards side seams to prevent skewing.)
- Sew side seams, finish seam allowances, press side seams open. Sew from the bottom up to prevent skewing.
- Sew facing side seams, finish seam allowances and bottom facing edge, press seams open.
- Sew your straps.
- Do a quick try-on and pin straps at the length you like. Measure the length you pinned and mark/trim your straps to the correct length.
- Sew the neckline/straps as per the pattern instructions or the sew-along (1, 2)!
- Gathered panels: Sew side seams, finish seam allowances, press open.
- You can hem the panels now, it will be easier to handle.
- Sew two rows of stitches with a long stitch length, first 3/8″ (1cm) from the raw edge, then 1/2″ (1.3cm) from the raw edge. Gather the panels to fit your bodice hem.
- Attach panels, finish seam allowance. I also topstitched the seam allowance towards to top to keep everything in place.
I am pretty in love with this camisole! The fit is spot on and it turned out exactly as I envisioned.
Thoughts? Would you guys give this hack a try? If you have any questions, don’t hesitate to ask in the comments!