Crescent Sew-Along #4: Ready, Set, Prepare!

Hi everyone! Thought I’d jump in with a Sew-Along update post. We’ll be starting the Sew-Along officially on Monday, beginning with our Crescent Skirt muslins. As promised, here are some helpful links on preparing to sew!

Just joining us? Here are links to the previous Sew-Along posts:

To prepare for sewing, we’ll talk about pre-washing your fabric, measuring yourself and choosing a size, and cutting your fabric.

Pre-washing Your Fabric:

Here’s the link to the post on Pre-Washing from the Pendrell Sew-Along – Pendrell Sew-Along #2: Prewashing your Fabric.

If you’re going to pre-wash your fabric, you can do it whenever you have time! I’ve already washed my fabric for the Sew-Along, and folded it up for when I’m ready to cut. That way I won’t be slowed down when I’m ready to cut the real fabric!

I also get in the habit of always pre-washing my fabrics as soon as I get them home. If it’s out of the shopping bag, then it’s always pre-washed! If you like to stick to rules, this method works well. I know all pieces of fabrics that aren’t in shopping bags with the trims and a receipt, are guaranteed to be pre-washed already.

Want a second opinion? Check out these other links on Pre-Washing:

Measuring Yourself and Choosing a Size:

Also from the Pendrell Sew-Along, here’s a post on Measuring and Choosing Your Size.

For the Crescent Skirt, if your measurements fall into two different columns, choose the size that fits your waist. Why? Because the hip area has plenty of ease! Especially if you’re making View B or C, the fuller skirts have so much ease they allow for a larger hip. And if your hips measurement is smaller, then you’ll just have a fuller skirt around the hipline.

I’d suggest following along as we make a muslin, as I’ll show you which seamlines are the best ones to alter, and which ones to leave alone. If you aren’t planning on making a muslin first, I’ll let you know now that the centre front, centre back, and sideseams are the best places to take in or add, not the curved seamlines. Changing those will change the look of the skirt!

Cutting Your Fabric:

Because some of you are going to skip the muslin stage,here’s a link on how to cut fabric! Pendrell Sew-Along #7: Cutting Your Fabric demonstrates cutting the Pendrell Blouse, but the principles of grainlines, cutting pieces on the fold, and following the fabric layout diagrams are the same.

When we finish our muslins and get to the cutting stage, I’ll include a link to this post again!

Lining or a Slip? You get both!

Because you asked for it, I’ll show you how to add lining to your skirts, as well as how to make a slip for your skirt. You get both! That way you’ll have the option to make either, depending on your personal preference! If you’re excited to buy lining, or are heading to the fabric store soon, and need help on figuring out fabric requirements, here are some tips.

If you can fit the Front and Back side-by-side on the lining, you’ll need one skirt length of lining. Measure the skirt pattern piece at its longest possible point, add a little extra, and that’s how much lining you’ll need.

However, unless your lining is 60″ wide and you’re making View A in a small size, you won’t be able to fit the Front and Back pieces side by side. In most cases, you’ll need two skirt lengths of lining. Again, measure the skirt pattern piece at its longest possible point, add a little extra, and double that amount.

Does that make sense?

The short answer to how much lining to buy: two skirt lengths of lining.

For example, I’m making the size 4 in View B, and my skirt pattern piece measures roughly 18″ from top to bottom at its longest point. If I doubled that amount and bought 36″ (one yard) I’ll have enough lining to cover the length of both pieces. You could round up if you wanted to be extra-sure, but you’ll also be able to nestle the pieces closer together, so you won’t need a full 18″ of length for each piece.

Or, bring your pattern pieces to the store and make a mock-layout on your chosen lining fabric. That way you won’t waste any lining fabric!

Any questions on the preparatory steps? Ask in the comments!

, , , , , , , ,

21 Responses to Crescent Sew-Along #4: Ready, Set, Prepare!

  1. Rachel April 13, 2011 at 6:07 am #

    Hooray! I can’t wait to get started.

    I need to buy some fabric to line my skirt, but i’m tossing up between the sensible option of black and the fun option of red. At least now I know how much I’ll need to buy once I do decide.

  2. Funnygrrl April 13, 2011 at 7:34 am #

    My mom will be so proud that I’m sewing a slip. She always had to fight to get me in one as a kid!
    I’ll pick up on the sew along next week but looking forward to seeing everyone’s variations.
    This week I saw a girl in a full skirt with pockets and almost asked where she got it, then I remembered, I’m making one!!!
    Thanks for the sew along!

  3. claire April 13, 2011 at 8:19 am #

    i’m excited for the tutorial on lining, though i wish i had more time to join the sew-along. :(

  4. Carlotta Stermaria April 13, 2011 at 8:31 am #

    Yay, lining tutorial! I’m glad because I sometimes wear both a lined skirt and a full slip to multiply layers during winter…

    I’m currently sewing a full slip made of the same cotton as the skirt, so if I wear them together, it’ll look like a summer dress!

  5. Mary April 13, 2011 at 10:34 am #

    What fabric should I get for the slip?

  6. portia April 13, 2011 at 11:00 am #

    I have my fashion fabric and pattern at the ready. Will you be doing a muslin/toile and fitting as part of the sewalong or should we all be doing that seperately now, before the sewalong starts?? Px

  7. portia April 13, 2011 at 11:04 am #

    Ignore me Tasia!! I just read the schedule. Just being a doofus!

  8. Kelly April 13, 2011 at 12:26 pm #

    Soo excited! ready to go! :)

  9. Reana April 13, 2011 at 4:03 pm #

    Oh so excited! I already have the fabric ready and waiting- actually it’s been staring at me for an entire week now tempting me to cut it…

    I do have one question (and I’m sure you’ll get to this later, but I thought I’d just jump in quick). Apparently my city is a 9″ zipper wasteland, and the only sizes I could find are 8″ or 10″. I bought a 10″, will this be Ok or should I look online for one? I just don’t want to pay the shipping costs for one lil’ zipper if I can avoid it!

    Ps. LOVE your lace post on the Sew Weekly!

  10. Blythe April 14, 2011 at 2:02 pm #

    @ Reana –

    No worries! There are lots of tutorials online on how to shorten a zipper, and it’s a pretty simple process. I like this one from See Kate Sew:

  11. Amanda April 14, 2011 at 4:29 pm #

    Hi Tasia!

    I unfortunately (and fortunately!) just discovered your blog this week, and I am SOO excited I did before the next SewAlong. However, I live in the southernmost tip of the United States in Laredo, TX, and think it might take a while to receive my pattern :( . Is it ok that I’ll be jumping in there just a few weeks late? Will it be a problem for me to catch up when I receive it?

    I can already go buy my fabric, and have it washed and ready for when the pattern arrives. I will be following along online until then, for sure, and might just email you questions if I have any when I catch up with you all – is that ok?

    I’ve really enjoyed catching up on what you’ve been doing this past year! It really has been an inspiration for me to jumpstart with my own sewing… ;)

    Take care,

  12. Tasia April 15, 2011 at 8:03 am #

    Hi Everyone! Just a quick note to say – you can join in the Sew-Along any time! If you’re not ready to start next week, that’s OK. All of the posts will be here when you’re ready, and I’ll continue to post links to all of the previous posts for easy reference.
    And of course, I’ll still be here to answer questions that may come up! Don’t worry, you’re not alone. Plenty of people will be starting at various times, and referring to the Sew-Along posts when they get to each stage.

    @Amanda: Of course, join up whenever you’re ready! The mail has been rather fast these days, arriving in Europe within a week. I’m always told 1-2 weeks at the post office but it is often faster than that! Comment with any questions you might have, so I can post a reply and everyone who has the same question, can see the answers! I’m glad you found the blog just in time to join! :)

    @Blythe: Thank you for jumping in with an answer!

    @Reana: Yes! 10″ is fine. You can either shorten the zipper by one inch, or you can make the zipper opening an inch longer. Shortening a zipper is easy, and that’s much better than special-ordering the 9″.

    @portia: You’ve already found the answer, but yes! We’ll be making the muslin together and going over ways to fit the skirt at the muslin stage.

    @Mary: For the slip, you could use any silky fabric! I prefer silk or rayon because I like natural fibres for myself. Silk charmeuse would be lovely, even rayon lining fabric (it’s often called bemberg lining) would work. If you don’t mind the feel of synthetic fabrics, a polyester or acetate lining would do the trick. The key is for it to be slippery and smooth, so it doesn’t stick to your main fabric. Anything that would work for lining would work for the slip, too!

    I’ll probably use a rayon bemberg lining for the slip for my project – mostly because of the wide range of colours available at my local store, and the price is affordable (here – $9/metre). I hope this helps and let me know if you need more info!

    @Rachel: I vote red! Or pale pink. I like a fun contrast but that’s just me! :)

  13. Reana April 16, 2011 at 6:56 pm #

    Thanks Tasia and Blythe :)

  14. Lauren R April 17, 2011 at 4:50 pm #

    Could you give a little guidance about choosing the right size? I read the Pendrell blouse sewalong post about measuring and size, but am still not sure since it focuses more on bust vs. waist and hip. I measure a 10 at the waist, but an 8 at the hip. Should I cut 10 and alter at the hip, or an 8 and alter at the waist? It seems like it would be easier to take in the hip than to increase the waist. I can’t tell from the envelope where the skirt sits (at the waist or below). What do you think?

    Thanks for doing this sewalong! I’m really looking forward to it!

  15. Annette April 17, 2011 at 6:55 pm #

    I’m so excited! This is my very first sew-along since starting sewing at the start of the year. I’m really looking forward to having more “pear-shaped” friendly clothes in my wadrobe and I can’t wait to see what other patterns you’ll be releasing, Tasia. Not to mention the subsequent sew-alongs!

    I must add, I only discovered your blog a couple of weeks ago (and bought your patterns the same day) and I’m hooked! I absolutely adore it! You’ve definitely provided me with a lot of inspiration. Thanks!

  16. Tasia April 18, 2011 at 9:32 am #

    @Lauren R: Hi Lauren! If you’re a size 10 at the waist, but an 8 at the hip, I’d suggest cutting the size 10. You’re correct, it is much easier to take in the hip than increase the waist! The skirt does sit at the natural waist, although you can make it to sit wherever you prefer.
    Are you planning to make a muslin, or go straight into cutting the skirt? If you make a muslin, you can easily take in the sides of the waistband to fit your narrower hips. (And then what I’d suggest, is leaving the skirt as-is and just letting it get slightly more gathered.)
    I hope this helps! Give me a shout if you have more questions. :)

  17. Tasia April 18, 2011 at 9:34 am #

    @Annette: Thanks Annette! There will be lots more patterns and Sew-Alongs in the coming year, I’m excited too! And tutorials and inspiration as well. Glad you found my blog :)

  18. Rachel April 28, 2011 at 3:58 am #

    Hi Tasia – lining related question – are you going to recommend essentially replicating the skirt pieces (without the pocket) for the lining?

  19. Tasia April 28, 2011 at 3:05 pm #

    @Rachel: Hi Rachel – that’s exactly it! Except we’ll fill in that front slashed part where the pocket is. It’s easy to do, I’ll show you how!

  20. Tasia April 28, 2011 at 3:12 pm #

    It is just how you might suspect though – line up the pocket with the front piece until the edges match, and trace around the whole thing to make a new, filled-in piece. In case you wanted to get a jump on things!

  21. Lourdes July 17, 2014 at 9:07 pm #

    Hi Tasia,

    I have a similar situation as some commenters regarding sizing and measurements. I fit a size 14 waist but a size 10 hips! I am about to attempt for the first time one of your patterns (the crescent skirt) and am wondering what size should I cut pieces? I do not want there to be too much extra fabric at the hip but I want it to sit comfortably at the waist. Can I cut the waistband pieces (pieces 6-10) at size 14, but the skirt pieces (1-4) at size 10?

    Thank you for allowing us to access your sewing expertise via this blog and tutorials. I went to your book launch at spool of thread and bought a couple different patterns including this one. I hope this comes out alright because I’d love to try more of your designs!