Belcarra Sew-Along #2: Sewing the Pocket and Sleeve Tucks

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Today we get to begin sewing our Belcarra blouses. You can click the badge to the left to see all of our Belcarra sew-along posts so far. Here is what we’ve covered, and what is to come!

Belcarra Blouse: Inspiration and Modification Ideas

Belcarra Blouse: Fabric Suggestions

Belcarra Blouse: Choosing Your Size, and FBA Tutorial

Belcarra Blouse: FAQ, and How To Narrow the Neckline

Belcarra Sew-Along #1: Preparing and Cutting your Fabric, Gathering Supplies

Today: Sewing the Pocket, Sewing Sleeve Tucks

Thursday, May 29th: Attaching Sleeves, Sewing Shoulders and Side Seams

Friday, May 30th: Neck Binding

Tuesday, June 3rd: Attaching the Sleeve Cuff/Band

Friday, June 6th: Hemming our Blouses

If you are making view A, you won’t need to do any sewing today. If you are doing view C, we’ll be sewing on our pocket. If you are doing view B, we’ll be sewing our sleeve pintucks. Let’s start with the pocket!

View C 

photo-1Start by turning and pressing the top edge of your pocket, use the notches as a guide.

photo-2Next fold the raw edge under so that it meets the fold and press this again.

photo-3Turn back this folded section along the fold line, so that the right sides are facing. Pin in place.

photo-4The next step is a great way to avoid any raw edges peaking out in the top corners. It gives a nice clean finish. Sew across each end of the folded portion, at 5/8″ (1.5cm) from the edge.

photo-5Trim these corners so that we can turn things back to right side out.

photo-6Now we can press our top edge, and press up our other edges 5/8″ (1.5cm) to form our pocket.

photo-7Edgestitch along the folded top edge, we’re finishing our pocket opening here. After this step would be the time to add any embellishment or appliqué to the pocket if that’s what you’re planning.

photo-9Now let’s grab our bodice front piece along with the pattern piece, and transfer the pocket marking. We want the pocket on the left side. But hey – if you prefer the right side, go for it! Whatever floats your boat. You might want to drape the front bodice on your body and check to make sure you like the positioning of the pocket.

photo-10Pin the pocket in place. Line up the top edge of the pocket with your marking.

photo-11Time to sew our pocket on! Start this way, at an angle moving from your stitch line up to the top edge. We’re creating those nice anchor triangles to give a lovely finish to our pockets. They are easier than they look! Go ahead and sew up to the top edge…

photo-12Keep your needle inserted into the fabric so things don’t move around, then lift your presser foot, pivot your bodice, and then lower your presser foot so that you can sew a couple of stitches along the top edge.

photo-13Then repeat the same thing: keep needle inserted, lift presser foot, pivot, lower presser foot, and continue sewing. We’re edgestitching about 1/8″ or a couple of millimeters from the pocket edge. Continue sewing all around the three edges of the pocket, and then repeat the triangle anchor on the other top corner.

photo-14There we are! Pocket complete.

View B

I’m using a different fabric to demonstrate this step (the fabric is so cute!). I am planning a little Belcarra modification tutorial with the sleeves from view B, but a more A-line bodice shape and rounded hem. Stay tuned for that tutorial after the sew-along! But in the meantime, let’s get to the pintucks…

photo-15The pattern has dashed lines to indicate the placement of the tucks. I like to notch these markings at each edge to give myself a good guide.

photo-18Before I go in and sew the tucks, I like to iron the folds. This gives me a guide, and helps me to make sure that my tucks are in line and not crooked or uneven. I just find it gives me a bit more control.

photo-19There we go, my tucks are pressed. Remember we are pressing wrong sides together, since the tucks are going to be sewn on the right side of the fabric.

photo-20Now I’ll sew at 1/8″ (3mm) from each presses edge. You can use pins if you’d like, I find the pressing is enough.

photo-21Here is what it looks like before I press down the tucks.

photo-22Here is how it looks after I’ve pressed down the tucks! We are pressing them towards the long edge, which will be the edge that attaches to the bodice, not the shoulder seam.

photo-23Repeat for the other sleeve piece. Now we’re all finished with our pintucks.

That’s all for today folks. I’ll be back on Thursday with another sew-along post where we’ll be sewing all of our seams and really get to see the blouse take shape. That’s how quickly this blouse comes together!

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7 Responses to Belcarra Sew-Along #2: Sewing the Pocket and Sleeve Tucks

  1. Miss Crayola Creepy May 27, 2014 at 2:05 pm #

    Oh good, I will definitely be referencing this post when I get to this step. Thanks, Caroline! xo

  2. Nothy May 27, 2014 at 6:35 pm #

    I love the pintucks in the printed fabric. They really look good. I finished my pocket today and am ready to sew the sleeves on. I find it really interesting that the sleeves attach to the main body rather than being sewn together and then attached to the main body. It is so much simpler this way….

  3. Jenny May 29, 2014 at 3:00 am #

    I absolutely love the way the pocket is put together! I always end up faffing around with the folded over part at the top & it never ends up looking particularly neat so thanks for this brilliant method :)

    • Caroline Amanda June 3, 2014 at 11:37 pm #

      No problem! It makes things miles easier with the pocket. Happy to help!

  4. Hilary June 2, 2014 at 12:08 pm #

    FYI, if you use your edge stitch foot #10, then you move your needle as close as you need with perfect stitching lines. So much easier than the AP #1 foot.

    • Caroline Amanda June 3, 2014 at 11:38 pm #

      Thanks Hilary! It’s a new machine so I’m still getting used to all the fancy feet. I am so accustomed to just using a regular foot for almost everything. I will give #10 a go next time. :)

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