The construction of the Davie Dress is pretty simple. The only part that may seem unusual is the neckline binding! Today I’ll show you how the Davie Dress neckline is sewn.
I chose a fabric for the Davie tutorial that has a distinct right and wrong side, to make it easy to follow. (And also because it’ll make a great dress!) You’ll also need 1/4″ (6mm) double fold bias tape. If you can’t find double fold bias tape in a colour you like, simply press single-fold bias tape in half again to create double-fold bias tape. Or cut bias strips and make your own binding. Choose a thin, lightweight fabric if you decide to make your own binding.
How to sew the Davie Dress neckline:
First, unfold one edge of the bias tape and press to remove the crease. It won’t be completely gone. Our goal is to get it to relax and unfold flat, but the crease line will still show. That’s OK and will come in handy later on!
Start at the centre back seam, and pin the unfolded edge to the neckline, working your way all the way around until you reach centre back again.
Leave 5/8″ (1.5cm) of tape at either end, and cut the excess tape.
At the back, press under the ends of the tape so they meet and then fold away from each other. There shouldn’t be any space between the ends, nor should there be an overlap.
Lift up the binding – unpin a few pins if you have to – and sew a seam where the folds meet.
Place the binding back down and repin to the dress neckline. Trim the seam allowances of the centre back seam.
Now sew down the crease that you just pressed to remove, sewing all around the neckline. The crease will still be there even though we’ve pressed it; use it as your guideline to sewing on the binding. Overlap the stitching a few stitches when you reach the start of your stitch line.
Here’s what it will look like so far.
Fold the binding over the fabric edge, so the edge of the binding meets the stitching line.
Edgestitch close to fold. Arrange your work so the side with the fold is on top, so you can adjust the fold closer to the original stitching line as needed. This step encloses the raw edges of our Davie dress neckline completely.
Here’s our dress neckline, so far:
Next, turn the bound edge all the way to the inside, so no binding is showing on the right side of the dress. I like to turn it just a little more, so there’s a ridge of dress fabric showing all around the binding. I’ve exaggerated this step a little bit more for these photos as well.
Press, and then topstitch binding in place. This hides the binding for a clean look, and strengthens the neckline of our dress.
Here’s our Davie Dress neckline binding, completed!
And a closer look:
What’s nice about the binding method on the Davie Dress neckline is that it adds stability to the dress. A knit dress is stretchy and can be heavy, so having a firm neckline helps maintain the shape of the dress.