Another placket demonstration! Today, it’s the placket on the Oakridge Blouse. This type of placket is called a continuous bound placket, since it’s made from one piece of fabric and it’s bound around the opening. I sewed up new demo samples just for this post, so it would be easy to see. We’re sewing a bright red printed placket on a muslin sleeve. I hope this makes it easier to follow!
You’ll need your sleeve and placket, and you’ll need the placket placement line marked clearly on the RIGHT side of your sleeve.
Yes, I’m using the same sleeve from last week’s placket demo for today’s demo as well! So now I have this cute little sleeve sample with two different plackets on it. You can see the difference here:
One’s more subtle, one’s definitely more visible. One is good if you want your fabric to show, one is good if you want the placket to be barely noticeable. I find the tailored ‘house’ placket more masculine and more casual. I like the continuous bound placket for dressy garments and softer fabrics.
So to make the continuous bound placket, we’ll stitch around the placket line before slashing it. Sew about 1/8″ or less (2-3mm) around the marked placket line, as shown in the photo below.
Then slash along the line.
Press under 1/4″ (6mm) on one long edge of the placket piece. A little hard to see on the red-on-red but you get the idea.
Now pin the unpressed edge to the slashed opening, and sew with a 1/4″ (6mm) seam allowance. Sometimes I find it easier to pin only the one side, sew it, and then align the other side under the machine and sew. It’s up to you.
When you sew, sew with the slashed side up, that way you can see if it’s catching in the middle. At the middle, the slashed sleeve won’t meet the raw edge of the placket, that’s all right. It will look like mine does in the photo below.
Another angle. You’ll end up with fullness in the middle since that’s your whole sleeve bunched up in there while the slash is spread open. Just make sure not to catch any of it, or you’ll end up with puckers.
Press the seam towards the placket. Wrap the folded edge of the placket around the seam, and line up the fold with the stitching line.
Yours is going to look way better than mine since I’m using dark thread for the demo. Most likely, your thread colour blends well with your sleeve and it won’t be quite as visible.
Pin this edge in place, in preparation for edgestitching. Then edgestitch it! (I switched to white thread here so it looked just a little better than black topstitching.)
Last step! We want to keep our continuous bound placket folding in the right spot, so we’ll sew across the top corner to finish it off. Fold your placket so the raw edges of the sleeve are in line with each other.
Now sew diagonally across the top corner of the placket.
And we’re done!
Another look at the continuous bound placket, from a different angle.
Pretty nice, eh? Even with contrast thread and muslin fabric.
ps. Check out all posts on shirtmaking here!