Happy Saturday, everyone! I’m not working today, but I scheduled a post so that we could keep to the original Sew-Along schedule. And so you can wear your finished dresses sooner!
Today we’ll understitch the bodice, and turn it right-side out. We’ll baste the lower edges together and get the bodice ready for attaching the waistband!
Catching up? Here are all of the earlier sew-along posts!
- Lonsdale Sew-Along #1: Supply List and Schedule
- Lonsdale Sew-Along #2: Fabric Recommendations
- Lonsdale Sew-Along #3: My Fabric Choice
- Lonsdale Sew-Along#4 : FBA for a Dartless Bodice
- Straightening the Ends of Your Fabric
- Cutting Fabric Using a Crosswise Fold Layout
- Lonsdale Sew-Along #5: Sewing the Bodice
- Underlining the Lonsdale Dress
- Lonsdale Sew-Along #6: Sewing, Turning and Attaching the Loops
- Lonsdale Sew-Along #7: Sewing the Bodice Layers Together
- Lonsdale Sew-Along #8: Optional! Adding Stay Tape
If you haven’t done so yet, trim and clip your seam allowances, like in the photo below. Clip the curves as much as necessary so you can stretch the seam out flat.
At the tips of the straps, clip the seam allowances like in the photo below – diagonally across the tips, and then angled again to remove more of the bulk. (I put the trimmed bits back in place, so you can see how it was trimmed.)
The less bulk we have, the easier it will be to turn them right-side out!Ok! Now let’s get ready to understitch the bodice. We do this to keep the wrong side of the bodice on the inside, and not rolling to the front of our dresses. Understitching also makes our edge easier to press, and more professional looking!
Before we can understitch, we need to turn our bodices right-side out. Here’s how I did it, after turning it right side out, I start pinching the middle of the strap end, and pull a little more out through the strap tube.
This part is a bit slow to do. If you know of a faster way to turn things like this right-side out, I’d love to hear it! For me, I just pinched a bit more fabric each time, tugged it out, and reached in for another pinch.
Here’s what it will look like, eventually!
Take it to the machine, arranging the RIGHT side of the bodice on your left, and the INSIDE of your bodice to your right. Seam allowance needs to be tucked towards your RIGHT.
This is what it will look like, looking down on your work:
Now, understitch away! You’ll want to stitch very closely to the fold, without crossing over to the right side of your bodice. Start at centre back and get as close to centre front as you can. You’ll probably get to where the stay tape stopped, just before the top edge narrows and turns into straps.
Here’s how your edge will look with a little understitching – and that’s before pressing!
Press this edge, rolling the understitched layer to the back, making sure it doesn’t show on the front.
See! Nice and crisp.
Press all around the top edge, up and down the straps.
Here’s what it will look like, so far:
One last step today, and that’s basting the raw edges together. We’ll do this so they stay aligned when attaching the waistband and zipper.
Pin along lower edges of bodice, and raw edges of zipper. I don’t think I always baste the zipper edges together, but definitely do the lower edges.
Line up the seamlines on both bodice layers – here I am peeking to make sure the seamlines line up!
Baste along lower edges and along centre back raw edges.
Done for the day! I have another post coming up tomorrow as well. Happy sewing and enjoy the rest of your weekend!