The moment we’ve all been waiting for is here – it’s time to put in our zippers! I’ll show you a really cool, new way to put in a regular zipper. It looks tidy and professional, and there’s no hand-sewing involved!
This method of inserting a zipper is going to seem really strange. If it’s just too weird to follow, or too confusing, or if you’ve already started to put your zipper in the regular way, that’s all right! You don’t have to put your zipper in this way if you don’t want to. Sewing is all about picking the methods that are right for you!
Catching up on the Sew-Along posts? Here they are!
- Crescent Sew-Along #1: Q&A and Schedule
- Crescent Sew-Along #2: Choosing Your Fabric
- Crescent Sew-Along #3: My Fabric Choice
- Crescent Sew-Along #4: Ready, Set, Prepare!
- Crescent Sew-Along #5: Supply List & Let’s Get Started!
- Crescent Sew-Along #6: Making the Muslin, Part 1
- Crescent Sew-Along #7: Muslin Part 2 and Gathering Tips
- Crescent Sew-Along #8: Grading It Up
- Crescent Sew-Along #9: Fitting the Muslin
- Crescent Sew-Along #10: A Pre-Sewing Checklist
- Crescent Sew-Along #11: Fusible Interfacing Tips
- Crescent Sew-Along #12: Sewing Slash Pockets
- Crescent Sew-Along #13: How to Reinforce Centre Front
- Crescent Sew-Along #14: Gathering!
- Crescent Sew-Along #15: Sewing French Seams
- Crescent Sew-Along #16: Sewing the Waistband and Waistband Facing
- Crescent Sew-Along #17: Waistband Trim Ideas
- Crescent Sew-Along #18: Attaching the Waistband
- Crescent Sew-Along #19: Adding a Lining
Back to the zipper installation! I’m going to break it down into several posts, so I can show lots of photos for each stage.
Today we’re going to attach our zippers to the waistband facing. Later we’ll attach this zipper-facing unit to the skirt and sew the waistband together – but today, all we’ll do is wrap our heads around this zipper-to-facing part.
You’ll need your zipper and your constructed waistband facing. The facing is finished around the lower edge, and the sideseams are pressed open. Now, take the zipper, and line it up along the centre back edge of the facing.
Some key points:
- Zipper is facing upwards. You can see the puller at the top, and the stopper at the bottom.
- Facing is also right-side-up. The right side of the fabric is showing.
- Zipper is lined up with the left side of the zipper next to the raw edge. The rest of the zipper falls to the right of the opening, with nothing extending past centre back.
Does yours look like this? Let’s pin it in place!
One thing that is really clear from the photo above is that the zipper teeth are lined up with the seamline. When we stitch the zipper into place, we’re sewing along our standard 5/8″ (1.5cm) seamline. There’s a teeny bit of extra space between the zipper edge and the raw edge.
Make sense? Pin all the way down the zipper tape.
If you have lining: this is where your project will look a little different! Simply continue pinning the zipper tape to the lining, after the facing ends. My zipper is dangling past the edge of the facing, yours will be pinned to the lining.
Switch your sewing machine foot to a zipper foot. Sew closely to the zipper teeth using the zipper foot.
Don’t sew over the zipper teeth! If you do, carefully unpick your stitching and check that the teeth aren’t damaged and the zipper still works.
After we’ve sewn the zipper to one side of the facing, let’s sew it to the other side!
I’d suggest arranging your facing to look like the photo above, making sure the facing hasn’t twisted in the process. If this confuses you, read through to the end of the post so you can see the finished section!
Here’s what it will look like, when both sides have been stitched:
Here’s what it looks like from the other side:
The first photo is from the outside of the skirt, the second photo is from the inside.
Press the facing lightly from the right side, being careful not to melt the zipper teeth. Use a press cloth or lightly steam the section and press with your fingers.
Does it make sense, what we did here? We’re basically sewing in reverse. Instead of slipstitching the facing to the zipper teeth at the end, we’re starting with that step, and then sewing the whole unit to the zipper.
Any questions? Leave a comment below!