Hello, everyone! I’m back with another Sew-Along post! We’ll sew up the waistband and while we’re at it, let’s sew up the waistband facing too. I find it easy to sew the same kind of seams one after another. Pin everything, then sew everything, then press everything.
It’s more efficient that way, but you can sew the seams and press as you go if you prefer. It’s up to you! In my demo I did a lot of stopping for photographs, but normally I would have sewn all the seams before stopping to press.
Need to catch up? Here are all the previous posts!
- Crescent Sew-Along #1: Q&A and Schedule
- Crescent Sew-Along #2: Choosing Your Fabric
- Crescent Sew-Along #3: My Fabric Choice
- Crescent Sew-Along #4: Ready, Set, Prepare!
- Crescent Sew-Along #5: Supply List & Let’s Get Started!
- Crescent Sew-Along #6: Making the Muslin, Part 1
- Crescent Sew-Along #7: Muslin Part 2 and Gathering Tips
- Crescent Sew-Along #8: Grading It Up
- Crescent Sew-Along #9: Fitting the Muslin
- Crescent Sew-Along #10: A Pre-Sewing Checklist
- Crescent Sew-Along #11: Fusible Interfacing Tips
- Crescent Sew-Along #12: Sewing Slash Pockets
- Crescent Sew-Along #13: How to Reinforce Centre Front
- Crescent Sew-Along #14: Gathering!
- Crescent Sew-Along #15: Sewing French Seams
Julia mentioned yesterday that we’re running a bit behind schedule – my apologies! I’ll aim to get more Sew-Along posts written and posted over the next few days. Here’s what the schedule is looking like, as it stands:
- Week of May 2nd: Sewing the Waistband, Trim Ideas, and Pre-Zipper Sewing Steps
- Week of May 9th: Sewing the Zipper, Hemming Ideas, Slip/Lining Tutorial, Finishing the Skirt
- Week of May 16th: Finished Skirts!
- Week of May 9th: Sewing the Waistband, Trim Ideas, Pre-Zipper Sewing Steps
- Week of May 16th: Sewing the Zipper, Hemming Ideas, Lining How-To
- Week of May 23rd: Finishing the Skirt, Slip Tutorial
How does that sound to you guys? We’re only a week off the original schedule. Does this timeline work going forward? I hope so! I’ll see if I can get us finished a little faster. Feel free to work ahead if you have a deadline or an event you’re planning to wear your new skirt for! You can always leave a comment here if you get stuck.
On that note, let’s get back to it and sew up our waistbands!
Sewing the Waistband
Starting with the centre front seam, sew the waistband together along the curved seams and sideseams. If you’re following the pattern sewing instructions, refer to step 11.
For sewing the curved seams, pin the pieces together matching the ends first. (Just like we did in the muslin!)
Then, pin in between the edges as shown.
It’s really important that you sew these seams accurately! If you take more in, or less than the seam allowance, it will change how the waistband fits.
Even if you’re taking an extra 1/8″ (3mm) on each seam, there are 7 seams, so that could equal almost an inch of difference! Take your time, sew slowly, and sew your seamlines exactly.
Press all seams open.
If you’re going to topstitch the seams or add trim – wait to trim the seam allowances until the trim or stitching is done. (I found it easier to trim evenly after the topstitching/trim was added.)
If you’re leaving the waistband as-is, then trim the seam allowances. I trim them in half, as it’s easy to eyeball the distance that way. You may need to clip the seam allowances too, to get them to lie flat.
At the end, you should have a constructed waistband looking somewhat like this:
Let’s move on to the waistband facing!
Sewing the Waistband Facing
Only two seams to sew here! Sew the Front Waistband Facing to the Back at the sideseams.
Press both seams open,
and trim the seam allowances.
You should have two pieces for the waistband now: one with the curved seams that goes on the outside, one without the curved seams that will go on the inside.
One new step that we didn’t do on our muslins: finish the lower edge of the facing. If you have a serger, that’s a quick and easy way to finish the lower edge!
If you don’t have a serger, here are some options for finishing the edges:
- Pink the edges with pinking shears
- Zigzag the edges
- Turn and stitch the edges
- Bind the edges – you can use bias tape, seam binding, anything that will bend around the curved edges. (Grosgrain and other ribbons might not be as flexible around the curves, so they wouldn’t be a good choice.)
I wanted to bind my edges, but I only had enough seam binding to bind the hem, and I’d rather use it there! So I’m going to turn-and-stitch the edges on my skirt.
To finish the edges by turning and stitching:
Press under 1/4″ (6mm) on the raw edges – in this case, our lower edge.
At the point, press under one side, then the other to form a point.
Edgestitch close to the fold from start to finish, about 1/8″ (3mm) from the fold.
This is one of those rarely-used edge finishes but it looks pretty tidy if you don’t have a serger! (And maybe even if you do. Sometimes it’s nice to use your sewing machine instead of a serger so the thread matches perfectly.)
That’s it for today! Any questions so far? I’ll be back with another Sew-Along post for tomorrow!