Seam Finishes: Turned and Stitched

Earlier today, I did a turned-and-stitched seam finish on my Lonsdale Dress. I’ll show you how I did it, breaking it down step-by-step with photos. This is a really tidy seam finish for stable fabrics like cotton. If your fabric presses well and holds a crease, this is a good solution for finishing the edges!

Here’s what it looks like:

And here’s how to do it! After pressing your seam allowances open, tuck under the raw edge 1/4″ (6mm) and press in place.

Repeat with the other side of the seam allowance. It’s more important to have them looking equal, that it is to turn exactly 1/4″ under.

Now, take your work to the sewing machine. Arrange your piece so the skirt layers are all to the left, and only the seam allowance layer is underneath the presser foot. You’ll be sewing a mini-hem on each side of the seam allowance in this step.

Sew close to the folded edge, all the way from top to bottom.

Now sew the other side. This photo above shows how all of the skirt layers are to the left, so you’re just sewing through the seam allowance, stitching the turned edge in place.

Backstitch at both ends. That’s it! You’re done! Press the seam again to set the stitches. Doesn’t that look nice?

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21 Responses to Seam Finishes: Turned and Stitched

  1. mom2fur (aka Clare) August 9, 2011 at 2:05 pm #

    I love this idea! I’m going to give it a try next garment I make. Finished seams really do make things look more ‘professional,’ don’t they?

  2. Tasia August 9, 2011 at 3:35 pm #

    @mom2fur (aka Clare): I agree! Nicely-finished seams make our sewing projects look professional – and last longer, too!

  3. Rachel August 9, 2011 at 5:11 pm #

    I finally got started on the Sew-Along yesterday and I am already caught up. I also added the button to my blog. Unfortunately, I have to start back to work Thursday, so I will fall behind but maybe I can get caught back up this weekend. I am anxious to see how the zipper is installed. I was thinking of doing an invisible zipper, but I hate those things.

  4. Shanna August 9, 2011 at 7:01 pm #

    It looks great. This is my new favorite way to finish seams when I don’t feel like dragging out my serger.

  5. Doortje August 10, 2011 at 7:35 am #

    I don’t have a seger and this is my favorite way to finish seams too!

  6. Sewingdina August 10, 2011 at 11:17 am #

    Oh I like this. I loved the french seams and I would like to try this.

  7. Tasia August 10, 2011 at 4:51 pm #

    Yay! I’m glad this tutorial was helpful – sometimes I get stuck on my serger and forget there are other cool ways to finish seams! I have one more seam-finish tutorial this week, stay tuned!

  8. Tanya September 10, 2011 at 10:22 pm #

    Thank you so much for this tutorial. I just started sewing again after many, many years away. I was so proud of how good my seams looked thanks to your help!

  9. Willa July 17, 2012 at 5:57 am #

    I have been making French seams.

  10. Eileen July 17, 2012 at 11:32 am #

    When I was in high school in the seventies sewing was part of our “Home Economics ” program and one of the first things we learned were all of the various methods of seam finishing, no one owned a serger in those days, and this method was just one of them. It is refreshing to see your website offering this tutorial, because people want to learn the art of sewing and resources are limited. Great job. Happy sewing!!!!

  11. Carla January 11, 2013 at 9:48 am #

    Wow!!! what a great idea!!!… Thank you!!! I will apply it immediately!!!


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