I love this type of pocket construction! It’s simple, it’s easy to get good results, and it makes a comfortable pocket.
Plus, it’s easy to make them look clean and professional on the inside, even if you don’t have a serger! (I’ll show you how.)
Catching up on the Sew-Along? Click here for links to the previous posts!
- Crescent Sew-Along #1: Q&A and Schedule
- Crescent Sew-Along #2: Choosing Your Fabric
- Crescent Sew-Along #3: My Fabric Choice
- Crescent Sew-Along #4: Ready, Set, Prepare!
- Crescent Sew-Along #5: Supply List & Let’s Get Started!
- Crescent Sew-Along #6: Making the Muslin, Part 1
- Crescent Sew-Along #7: Muslin Part 2 and Gathering Tips
- Crescent Sew-Along #8: Grading It Up
- Crescent Sew-Along #9: Fitting the Muslin
- Crescent Sew-Along #10: A Pre-Sewing Checklist
- Crescent Sew-Along #11: Fusible Interfacing Tips
Let’s get started! You’ll need your pocket pieces, your Skirt Front pieces – three pieces in total.
Thread your machine in matching thread, if you haven’t done so already!
Pin the pocket piece to the skirt front along the pocket opening edge.
Repeat with the other side of the skirt.
Sew the pocket opening seam with a 5/8″ (1.5cm) seam allowance. (See, I’m getting better at including both metric and imperial measurements in my tutorials and demos! I think in both, but I know some of you can only picture directions in one or the other!)
Backstitch at both ends. This red thread shows up nicely on my fabric, so it’s easy to see my stitches.
Repeat with the other side of the skirt.
Now, we’ll stabilize our pocket openings. The instructions ask for 1/4″ twill tape. You could also use stay tape, or selvages from your garment fabric.
Why did I recommend twill tape? For one, it’s cheap and easy to find. I thought it would be easy for everyone around the world to find twill tape, as compared to stay tape. (Was I right?) I also liked that it was 1/4″ wide already, no need to trim it down to size.
Stay tape is nice because it’s so lightweight, and one roll will last you a long time. You can cut it down the middle for thinner strips, which will use even less! (Check out a previous post for more on stay tape.)
Cut the twill tape the length of the pocket opening, lining up the edge along the stitched seamline.
Pin twill tape to seam allowance. Line up the edge of the twill tape with your stitched seamline.
Tip: if you pin with the sharp ends facing up, the pins will be easier to remove as you sew! Hold the fabric the way you’re going to sew it, with the rest of the skirt to the left, and pin upwards.
Here’s what it will look like, from far away:
Now, stitch right down the middle of the twill tape.
Backstitch at both ends. Here’s a close-up:
Now, trim off the seam allowance along the edge of the twill tape. See how easy the twill tape makes trimming? Don’t cut the twill tape, just cut off the excess fabric.
Here’s what your pocket will look like so far:
Fold out the pocket, as shown, with the seam allowances facing the pocket.
Let’s peek underneath at the seam allowances. Yup, they’re pushed towards the pocket!
Let’s understitch the pocket seam allowances so they stay towards the pocket. For more on understitching, take a look at this previous post.
Here’s what it will look like after the understitching:
Fold the pocket back towards the skirt, like so:
And give it a little press with the iron. Your understitching will show on the inside, but nothing will show on the outside!
Here’s where you can topstitch the pocket opening, if you wanted to. Completely optional!
Now we’re going to sew the lower edge of the pocket. I’m going to show you a different method than the sewing instructions, but feel free to use whichever method you like!
If you want to serge or zigzag, follow the instructions in the pattern. Pin the pocket layers right sides together, like I’m holding it in the photo, stitch, and finish seam allowances. Stitch just through the two pocket layers, not the front of the skirt.
If you don’t have a serger – you can French seam the bottom of the pocket opening! I will demonstrate this method as it looks nice even if you do have a serger.
Fold the pocket bag in half, matching curved edges, wrong sides together. I know, this seems strange, but trust me!
Pin the lower edge together along the curve.
Now, we’ll sew this seam, taking a 1/4″ (6mm) seam allowance only. I like to use the edge of my presser foot as a guide.
A close-up of lining up the presser foot, depending on your machine’s foot, you may be able to do the same thing!
Here’s what the seam will look like after it’s sewn:
Trim the seam allowance in half, down to 1/8″ (3mm).
Turn pocket back inside out, with the wrong side of the fabric on the outside.
Use your fingers to turn the seam completely inside-out, and press it flat.
Now, take the pocket back to the sewing machine, and sew another 1/4″ (6mm) seam.
Backstitch at both ends again.
Look how nice the seam looks – no serger required!
Flip the skirt back to the right side, and pin pocket bag to skirt along top edge and side seam.
Baste along edges using a long machine stitch.
Here’s what it looks like at the end of it all:
There you have it! Tidy little pockets, no bulges or bumps. It will lie flat on the body without adding any bulk to our hips. The twill tape will keep it from stretching out after use and wear, so it’s a strong little pocket, too.
Any questions? Leave a comment below!