Thanks for all the encouragement over the weekend, you guys! I did finish my party dress in time for Saturday night’s festivities. I don’t have a ton of photos from the event that turned out though. I’m going to put the dress back on and take a few shots of the finished dress, and answer some of your construction questions in another post.
In the meantime, here’s a tutorial on how to make your own lace-trimmed lining!
For the Party Dress, I trimmed the edges of my lining with lace. It adds such a pretty touch peeking out of the skirt! Especially the lime-green lace showing under the teal silk skirt. Every time I crossed my legs, a little peek of lace and lining would show. Definitely my favourite part of the dress!
Here’s how I did it:
First, you’ll need a piece of lace as long as your hemline is wide. If you’ve finished the skirt seams already, measure the hem opening of the finished lining skirt. (It’s like stitching the hem! Start anywhere, measure around the hem in a circle until you get back to the starting point.)
If you haven’t, measure the width of your lining pattern pieces and add them up to get the finished skirt hem circumference. Remember to subtract the seam allowances! Buy a little bit extra to overlap, or in case it stretches out, in the case of bias or circle hems.
Next, hem the skirt itself (not the skirt lining). This will help you figure out where to place the lining trim so it shows just the right amount of lace. This works best if the dress is already constructed, with just the hemming left to do.
Turn the dress or skirt right side out. The un-hemmed lining should dangle below the hemmed skirt. Smooth and tug the lining down, so that it’s not bunched up under the skirt. This should be essentially where the lining will fall, when the dress is being worn. (If you don’t smooth down the lining, you might not hem it enough and when it does hang smoothly it will hang down too low…)Now, mark where the finished lining hem ends. I used pins for speed, but you could also use chalk or a marking pen.Lift the skirt out of the way, so you can get to the lining. For extra accuracy, draw a line connecting the pins or dots. (I didn’t, but you might want to! Especially if your hem is curved.)Now, decide where you want the lace trim to land. If the pins are where the skirt hem is going to fall, do you want it to line up exactly with the finished hem? Hang down below?
I decided to have my lace trim just slightly shorter than the skirt hem. That way, it won’t show when I’m standing up, but it will peek out if I twirl or bend or sit. Next, determine where the finished hem of the lining should be, in order to line up the lace. Here, I marked it with a pin.
Next, hem the lining. I serged off the extra hem length, and pressed up the hem along the serging line. If you don’t have a serger, a narrow hem would work as well, or a turned-twice hem. Time to start pinning the lace to the lining hem! I started at the centre back seam, but you could start at the sideseam if you prefer.Work your way around the hem, pinning the lace as you go. For easier sewing, pin in the direction you plan to sew! (I didn’t, and it slowed me down having to remove the pins from the wrong angle.. It would have been even slower to re-pin though!)
Here’s what the lace trim looks like from the other side. Our goal here is to have it look nice from both sides, in case it shows either way!
Now, it’s time to sew on the lace trim, and hem the lining, all in one easy step! Edgestitch along the folded hem. This will secure the lace to the lining, and hem the lining at the same time.
Continue hemming until you reach the starting point, backstitch and trim your threads. You’re done! A pretty (and simple) lace-trimmed skirt lining.Looking back, the only thing I might do differently next time, is attach the lace on the other side of the lining. This way it looks better from the inside, but when you cross your legs you’re mostly seeing it from the non-edgestitched side.
Ever trimmed your lining with lace? Is this the way you do it, or do you have a different method? Let us know in the comments!