I love a good floral print dress! This one is no exception. The colours are bright but the navy background tones it down.
The pattern is a Burda Magazine pattern from 9/2014, dress #122. (It’s easier to remember patterns when they have names, isn’t it? Cambie Dress is more memorable than Dress 122.)
You can see the design lines more clearly in the pattern line drawing and model photo. They’d show up if I had used a solid fabric!
You could argue it isn’t the best match of pattern and fabric, and I agree. I wanted to try out the pattern in fabric I already had and though the weight would be right for the flared part of the skirt. The floral print is small enough so the flowers don’t look chopped up along the seamlines, unless you examine them closely.
The fabric is a cotton sateen with 3% spandex, lined with bemberg rayon lining.
The cotton makes it comfortable to wear and not overly dressy. It’s a dress you can wear whenever, not just special occasions.
Here’s the back view. It has a nice shape around curves without being too snug.
I cut a size 36 on top and size 40 at the bottom, tapering in between to about a size 38 at the waist. After sewing a muslin, I took a bit of extra length out of the centre back, and reduced some of the extra I’d added at the hips.
Tips for this pattern:
I’d fully line it next time instead of cutting the lining in a straight line. The pattern instructs you to cut the lining short, straight across the lower hip/upper thigh, so it’s much shorter than the actual dress. What I’d do is cut exactly the same pattern pieces for both lining and main fabric and hem it nicely, knowing the longer hem at the back will show through the front a little.
The lining stops about where my watch sits in the photo above. It isn’t uncomfortable but I’d prefer a full lining. Especially in winter, for wearing with tights.
Staystitching the curves is important to sewing all of the curved panels. Staystitch, pin both ends of the seam and clip in between to release the seam allowance. A lot of clipping is required to get the seams to lie flat! Alternately, you could press the seam allowances to one side rather than open and finish them together. You’d still have to clip them to sew the seams though.
You have to follow the order of construction in the instructions.! I’m tempted to do my own thing but if you do, you won’t be able to insert the zipper. I find with Burda instructions there are no visuals so I want to ignore them completely, but sometimes there’s a reason for the specific order of steps. Just a suggestion if you make this dress, do follow their order of sewing steps.
In the next photo the shadows highlight the flared part of the skirt, even though I’m squinting in the sun.
What I actually wore that day: dressed down with a denim jacket and caramel leather bag.
If I were to make this again, I’d choose a solid colour so the seaming shows up. I’d love a forest green or charcoal grey for Fall. There’s a beautiful version with contrast lace panels on the Russian Burdastyle site that makes the most of the seamlines. That could be something to try as well. If I’m going to go to the trouble of sewing all those curved seamlines, I’d like them to show up.
I love when a pattern works out, I’m always tempted to try it again right away with a few changes or improvements. Do you do the same? It’s satisfying to sew something good, and then sew something even better for round two.