Fabric Suggestions for the Granville & Oakridge Blouses

Happy Wednesday sewists! Caroline here. I’ll take any excuse to talk about fabric, so today let’s discuss fabric options for our new Granville Shirt and Oakridge Blouse patterns.

The fabric suggestions that I’ve compiled below are from many lovely fabric shops around the web. There are some great options here! Let’s geek out about fabric, shall we?

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The Granville shirt is a classic buttondown shirt. For this, I would suggest fabrics made out of cotton, linen, or any blends including those fibers. You want something with a bit of structure that will give you a nice crisp collar, button band, and sleeve placket. Look for a fabric that will press nicely (natural fibers are your friend!).

Cotton poplin, voile, lawn, chambray, and seersucker will all work nicely. You might find something like a rayon poplin or linen voile – which are also good choices. If you’re shopping online, anything labeled as shirting is a safe bet!

oakridge blouse by sewaholic patterns

For the Oakridge blouse, the style lends itself well to fabrics with more drape and flow. Fabrics made from rayon or silk will be inherently drapier. That’s a made up word, but you get it! Challis, crepe de chine, and charmeuse will all fall heavily, hanging in soft folds.

I especially like the bow blouse version with fabrics that have a nice drape. A cotton lawn, voile, or chambray will have more body and hang in stiff folds – these fabrics could work nicely for the collarless version.

Want to see some examples? I’ve included sources below, along with notes about which pattern the fabric would be suitable for. Some fabrics could work for both the Granville Shirt and Oakridge Blouse.

Fabric Suggestions Granville and Oakridge1. Rayon Challis from Fabric.com / for the Oakridge Blouse
2. Silk Crepe de Chine from Gorgeous Fabrics / for the Oakridge Blouse
3. Liberty Cotton Lawn from Fabric.com / for the Granville Shirt or Oakridge Blouse
4. Silk Crepe de Chine from Gorgeous Fabrics / for the Oakridge Blouse
5. Seersucker from Mood / for the Granville Shirt
6. Cotton Plaid Shirting from Mood / for the Granville Shirt
7. Silk Charmeuse from Mood / for the Oakridge blouse
8. Liberty Cotton Lawn from Fabric.com / for the Granville Shirt or Oakridge Blouse
9. Silk Crepe de Chine from Vogue Fabrics / for the Oakridge Blouse
10. Viscose Poplin from Fabric.com / for the Granville Shirt or Oakridge Blouse
11. Cotton Poplin from Fabric.com / for the Granville Shirt
12. Marc Jacobs Plaid from Mood / for the Granville Shirt
13. Chambray from Michael Levine / for the Granville Shirt or Oakridge Blouse
14. Gingham from Michael Levine / for the Granville Shirt
15. Cotton Poplin from Mood / for the Granville Shirt

If you’re shopping online, look for fabrics with the keywords above. If you’re shopping in person, there is no need to limit yourself. You can use our suggestions as a guide, but go with your gut!

If you are looking at a fabric that is the weight, drape, and feel that you would want in a shirt or blouse, don’t worry about what it’s called. There are no real rules here, you call the shots! (And if you like the exact fabrics we used for our samples, I’ve stocked many of them in my shop.)

Questions? Feel free to ask me in the comments!

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15 Responses to Fabric Suggestions for the Granville & Oakridge Blouses

  1. Lauren M January 14, 2015 at 6:15 am #

    Great post Caroline. It occurred to me that if you were doing the Oakridge shirt with a contrasting bow, you could possibly do the body of the shirt in a shirting fabric and the bow in a drapier fabric. I might just have to test that theory out!

    • Caroline Amanda January 15, 2015 at 8:46 am #

      That’s a great idea Lauren! Be sure to share the results!

  2. Elle January 14, 2015 at 7:56 am #

    Caroline, I’m so glad you will be leading the sewalong again! I’ve got a fairly large chest and so I always wait to see how a Sewaholic pattern looks on you before I take the plunge, myself. I love seeing the patterns made up on different body types, it’s so helpful!

    • Caroline Amanda January 15, 2015 at 8:48 am #

      Hi Elle! We won’t be doing a sew-along for this one, but there will be lots of posts on the blog over the next few weeks covering different bits of the constructions process. Tasia already has some planned out and they are great. I’ll also be sharing my first Granville shirt next Wednesday, and my first Oakridge the following Wednesday! So you’ll definitely get to see them on me :)

  3. CozyCotton January 14, 2015 at 3:38 pm #

    Just bought the Granville shirt pattern. The instruction looks very good. However I need more help on choose the interfacing material. Will you have a post to talk about what interfacing is suitable for shirts?

    • Tasia January 15, 2015 at 9:35 am #

      Thank you! For interfacing, I’ve started to prefer sew-in interfacing made of bleached muslin. That’s the recommendation in the Shirtmaking book I referenced, and it works well. Otherwise, I like a lightweight all-purpose fusible that’s woven from 100% cotton. I have a bolt of it and it’s labelled as ‘Shape-Flex’ but might be called different names around the world. This looks like the same thing:http://www.joann.com/shape-flex-woven-interfacing-20inw-x-25yds/1104017.html
      For lighter fabrics I like one called ‘Sewer’s Dream’ – it’s very lightweight and mesh-like, soft polyester, and works well on drapier fabrics. Here’s a link for more info: http://www.blackbirdfabrics.com/sewers-dream-fusible-white-1-2-meter/
      Hope this helps! Lighter is better, I usually avoid the non-woven type and anything too stiff or foamy-feeling. Test on a scrap of your fabric to make sure it adheres well and doesn’t crinkle or do weird things.

  4. Sue January 14, 2015 at 4:26 pm #

    Maybe a separate post on how to decide how long to make the sleeves? I’ve read elsewhere that one of the best ways to make a jacket or blouse look better is to shorten too long sleeves. The Granville sleeves look waay too long to me, but they would be warmer this time of year! I have short arms, too, so am always rolling up or shortening sleeves.

    • Tasia January 15, 2015 at 9:27 am #

      Sleeve length is such a personal preference! I like mine on the long side, and I like them best when they extend about 1/4″ to 1/2″ out of my jacket sleeve.
      I’ll see what I can dig up about the ‘best’ sleeve length, and how to adjust the pattern! Here’s an article I found about where sleeves should end.
      http://propercloth.com/reference/how-the-sleeve-length-should-fit/
      There is extra length included so you can bend your arms, as the sleeve gets taken up into the elbow crease.
      In the meantime I’d compare some of your favourite shirts and see where the sleeves end. I knit sweaters and I’ve started to know my sleeve length exactly, since too short is annoying and too long gets in the way.

  5. Rebecca January 14, 2015 at 4:48 pm #

    Do you think a light flannel would work for the Granville?

    • Tasia January 15, 2015 at 9:24 am #

      I think a light flannel would be awesome for the Granville! As long as you can sew the placket and collar, think of how those smaller enclosed pieces will work. If it’s more like a shirt-weight flannel, then you’re probably good to go! Even if is on the thicker side you could use an alternate fabric for the plackets and collar stand, maybe inner yoke, if you find it too bulky.

  6. Laura January 15, 2015 at 2:28 pm #

    I was wondering if a silk chiffon would be too light for an oakridge blouse. I love both of these patterns!

    • Caroline Amanda January 16, 2015 at 8:05 am #

      Thanks Laura! It’s definitely do-able in a silk chiffon, but chiffon tends to be quite difficult to sew, which is why we wouldn’t “recommend” it per se. Especially with the precision sewing of a front button band, cuff, & bow (on the bias). You might want to select a contrasting fabric for the button band, cuffs, and bow/collar – something with a bit more stability but a similar drape. If you prefer to use self fabric for everything I would recommend using a silk underlining like a crepe or habotai.
      Hope this helps!

  7. debrajrawlings January 22, 2015 at 6:58 am #

    I have received the patterns I ordered and am looking forward to sewing them up as soon as I get my current projects done. I was so pleased to see that the body measurements on the envelope reflect my own more closely than do most patterns.

    • Tasia January 22, 2015 at 11:34 am #

      That’s great to hear!

Trackbacks/Pingbacks

  1. Betsey Johnson Butterick 5997 - January 17, 2015

    […] really pretty, and I like my new top, but I recently saw this fabric (with the black background) recommended by Caroline on Sewaholic for the new Oakridge blouse. Given the lack of drape, I think it would be more appropriate for the Granville […]