Blue Rose Hazel

Here’s a new floral dress to add to my wardrobe – Hazel!

hazel dress from colette patterns

I sure know what I like – colourful, printed, feminine dresses. Dresses like this are so easy to wear. I’ll add a cardigan, boots and tights in the winter, maybe even an extra pair of socks on top of the tights and a warm hat. In summer, a printed dress is the easiest thing to throw on. Just a pair of comfy flats or cute sandals and I’m good to go!

hazel dress from colette patterns

(For some reason, the heat has been cranked up in my office, so it was no problem to model the dress without tights or a sweater…just in case you were wondering why I don’t look cold here!)

hazel dress from colette patterns

Plus, since the background of the print is dark, it counts as a wintery dress in my mind. (As opposed to a light or white-based print, which looks too summery for wearing with black tights.)

Modifications:

I cut a straight size 2 except for the skirt pieces.

I cut the size 18 skirt bottom, both length and width. Why? I wanted a little more fullness in the gathered skirt. I could tell from the sample photos that the skirt was not very full, and I like more fullness both for comfort and for the silhouette. Rather than overthink it, by using the largest size skirt pattern I was able to add a couple more inches of extra fullness in the gathers.

hazel dress from colette patterns - border print(the border print looks great in this pattern!)

Sewing Notes:

Mark the centre front of the skirt! I like to make a little snip into the fold so it’s easier to line up the gathers. Make sure to snip the centre front of the bodice if needed, although on the Hazel the seamlines meet in the centre front so it’s easy to line up.

If you wanted to use a regular zipper, a 14″ would be the right length, a little on the long side but 12″ is too short. I was going to use a regular zipper, but then decided to follow the directions and use an invisible one since I had one on hand. (I prefer regular zippers but I do like how the invisibles look.)

hazel dress from colette patterns back view

(the strap is slipping in this photo but I swear they do properly cover my bra straps!)

The waist is a little higher than my natural waist.. but I really liked the proportions of the dress that way! The skirt is on the long side, and the bodice is on the short side, so I look a little taller while still having plenty of leg coverage. (Or perhaps I don’t look much taller, but it does make the legs look longer as opposed to having a long torso and short legs..)

Like my Chantilly, it’s a little loose through the ribcage and waist, but I like it. If I want it to show off the figure more, I’ll wear a cardigan and button it at the waistline only, but in the meantime it’s nice to be able to eat a big meal.

hazel dress from colette patterns

The bust darts are a teeny bit pointy. To avoid the pointed look, sew the darts with a bit of a curve. Which I did, but they’re still a little prominent, partly because of the shape and partly because my fabric is quite crisp. I’m thinking of replacing the darts with gathers, perhaps on a future version.

hazel dress from colette patterns - close up(you can see the darts a little bit in this photo)

I finished the waist seam allowances and tacked the facings to the bodice, both things weren’t specifically noted in the instructions but I did out of habit. I also topstitched the waist seam for no real reason. It’ll be hidden under a belt most times I wear this dress, I’d imagine.

I also thought about making this project complicated: adding lining, adding underlining to the bodice, lace to the lining hem, maybe some piping along the top edge.. and then decided to keep it simple! Sometimes it’s great to pick up and sew a simple project as is, and let the fabric and styling stand alone. I’ll save the piping and embellishments for Hazel Number Two.

hazel dress from colette patterns

Overall thoughts? A great, simple, quick-to-sew sundress that’s perfect for printed fabrics where you want the print to be the focus.

Make again? You bet! Are you surprised that I already have plenty of fabric that would be suitable for more Hazels?

Have you made the Hazel dress?

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64 Responses to Blue Rose Hazel

  1. Jody February 25, 2013 at 6:05 am #

    You.Look.Amazing!!!!!! So gorgeous. Totally Love, love, love :)

  2. Naomi February 25, 2013 at 6:09 am #

    Supercute! And I adore the fabric! :) Perfect summer dress!

  3. Maggie February 25, 2013 at 6:09 am #

    Love it! I have not made a Hazel yet, but it sure is a flattering style!

  4. Roisin February 25, 2013 at 6:11 am #

    Tasia, this is gorgeous! I have made the Hazel dress three times and in fact, I’m going to be running a dressmaking workshop in a local craft store, teaching people how to make it. One of the modifications I was planning to offer was making it with a fuller skirt and I love the way you have done this in such a simple way – it takes this sweet little dress and makes it really elegant and sophisticated!

  5. Debbie February 25, 2013 at 6:39 am #

    Your dress is beautiful Tasia! I absolutely love the colors of your fabric.

  6. Jenny February 25, 2013 at 6:47 am #

    I love it!! It’s such a pretty dress – the print and the silhouette are fabulous! I haven’t made this but your version makes me want to get the pattern now.

  7. Burke February 25, 2013 at 7:13 am #

    I’ve made Hazel 4 times and love them all, and love your added fullness. Will try that on #5!

  8. Suzie February 25, 2013 at 7:26 am #

    Beautiful. I agree with you that the darker background makes this dress appropriate for this time of year and would be much easier to match with tights etc.
    I love wearing dresses and always struggle to pull outfits together during winter, so this could be my solution – look for some darker fabrics (doh, sounds so simple when I say it now!)!

    • Tasia February 25, 2013 at 10:54 am #

      I found it hard to wear my brightest or lightest dresses in the winter, even with dark accessories – so I tried a darker print and I think it works! Even if the colours are bright but the background is dark, it’s a little more wintery and looks better with dark tights.

  9. Kristonlion February 25, 2013 at 7:36 am #

    I love this! You look amazing! And I LOVE your hair! Genius idea to cut a fuller skirt! Love that you can wear this year round! I made a white lacy hazel, a floral hazel for my sister and a dark plaid flannel cozy hazel. So I had just put the pattern away to do something else, but hmmmm…maybe I should make more!

    • Tasia February 25, 2013 at 10:53 am #

      I love the idea of a plaid flannel version!

  10. Vicki Kate February 25, 2013 at 7:47 am #

    I love the fuller skirt! Looks beautiful!

  11. Hanne February 25, 2013 at 7:48 am #

    You look great! I’ve made the Hazel twice now and I feel a lot more Hazels coming up! They are so easy and pretty :-) Yours looks very beautiful!

  12. funnygrrl February 25, 2013 at 8:01 am #

    That fabric is gorgeous! So rich looking. This would be beautiful paired with a cardi and tights.
    Wow!

    • funnygrrl February 25, 2013 at 8:01 am #

      Also, hair colour looks great. Did you add a little red?

      • Tasia February 25, 2013 at 10:53 am #

        Actually I’m getting rid of the red, it’s had red in it for a couple of months now, but only seems to be noticeable in the sunshine. But thank you! It was a lot of fun but too obvious when the roots would grow out.

  13. Diane @ Vintage Zest February 25, 2013 at 8:43 am #

    Adorable! I cut out my first Hazel but haven’t made it yet. I’m so antsy!!!

  14. Tasha February 25, 2013 at 9:12 am #

    Love it! Those are great colors on you and I can see how you could easily make it a 4-season dress. Fabulous!

  15. Susasn February 25, 2013 at 9:18 am #

    It’s beautiful! I love the colors and the fuller skirt. I’ve made two hazels so far, but I think I might have to try making the skirt more full. It looks great! And I’ve been wearing mine with a cardigan and boots too :)

    • Tasia February 25, 2013 at 10:51 am #

      It’s easy to do with a straight rectangle-shaped pattern piece like this one! Just add to the sides in a straight line, so easy.

  16. Julianne February 25, 2013 at 9:38 am #

    The fuller skirt is much more your style, and it looks great.

    I agree with you about snipping the center. I do this on just about every pattern piece I work with, no matter what, but especially when gathering!

    I recently finished a dress that called for bust darts, and no matter what I did I could not get them even or to lay correctly! So last week I replaced that bust with gathered bust pieces. There was still a lot of fitting to do, like how bunched the gathers should be and exactly where they should end, but in the end it was easier and more flattering than the darts.

    Plus, it would be a nice personal twist on a popular design.

    • Tasia February 25, 2013 at 10:51 am #

      That makes me feel better! I think it may also be because the pattern is designed for a curvier bustline than mine, so the darts are pointier on me than on someone with a larger chest size. I think I’ll try gathers instead but gather a longer section, so I can adjust them to fit and get the ‘bunching’ just right.

      • Hanne February 26, 2013 at 3:09 am #

        I have quite a curvy bustline and I had to adjust the darts aswell, so maybe it’s just the pattern that has very pointy darts? I resolved the issue by stitching them in a curve instead of a straight line and making them a little longer.

        • Tasia February 27, 2013 at 5:04 pm #

          It might be – it might also be the fabric we used. My fabric is quite crisp so any pointiness is not going to soften out naturally. Good idea to make them a little longer, I could always re-stitch them longer if they bug me.

  17. Sabrina February 25, 2013 at 9:42 am #

    The dress is beautiful!
    I like your designs and have me yesterday ordered two patterns with you.
    I’m looking forward to the pattern.

    Sabrina

  18. Susan Davis aka Knitters-Delight February 25, 2013 at 10:15 am #

    Your Hazel is AMAZING!

  19. Kelly February 25, 2013 at 10:40 am #

    This dress is beautiful, and looks perfect on you. The blue in that print is just great, and it looks really versatile, despite being a flowery sundress!

  20. Christine February 25, 2013 at 10:42 am #

    Where does one get the pattern? Don’t see it on your website.

  21. Jan A February 25, 2013 at 10:44 am #

    Beautiful! For cooler summer nights, a lace bolero in any of the colours in your fabric, or for winter a lacy T-shirt or top under this dress for a dressy evening look. Is the fabric vintage? This dress is so versatile. After years of wearing pant outfits, and losing a lot of weight, I discovered that I could wear dresses again.

    • Tasia February 25, 2013 at 10:49 am #

      Yes, it’s vintage! It’s a narrow-width cotton print, with vertical bands of flowers. Dresses are great and versatile, I find them easier than pants to wear because it’s all one piece and there’s no worrying about heel height and pant length..

      • Katherine February 25, 2013 at 3:09 pm #

        I understand the fabric was vintage that you used, however, what type of fabric did you decide upon?

        • Tasia February 25, 2013 at 3:11 pm #

          It’s a plain woven cotton, similar weight to quilting cotton but a little crisper and lighter. A cotton voile or lawn would work well also! Hope this helps.

  22. Christine February 25, 2013 at 10:46 am #

    Found it! It’s a Colette pattern….. Guess I should have looked first!

  23. Jane February 25, 2013 at 10:57 am #

    Your version looks great. I also made a fuller skirted version but drafted a pleated skirt version and added a waistband. I love it and get lots of compliments every time I wear it.

  24. Kate February 25, 2013 at 11:38 am #

    looks like summer! I really like both the dress and the fabric. I’m a long way from making summer dresses, I’m still sewing winter clothes (even faux fur hat!), but I’m sooo looking forward to it, and you dress is quite an inspiration!

    • Tasia February 25, 2013 at 3:16 pm #

      I’m a long way from being able to wear summer dresses in a summery way, but now I have something to look forward to wearing when the weather warms up!

      Your faux-fur hat is gorgeous! Very elegant.

  25. Barbara Hewitt February 25, 2013 at 12:03 pm #

    I love this pattern. I’m a young 60+ fashion sewest, and love that I would still be able to wear my bra w/o the straps showing. Your fabric choice is great but I would pick a fabric that would have the design going in the other direction.

    • Tasia February 25, 2013 at 3:14 pm #

      It would be really easy to change the direction of the skirt pieces! I agree, it’s nice when you don’t have to think too much about your bra when you get dressed.

  26. Ashley February 25, 2013 at 12:12 pm #

    You look beautiful!! I think the dark blue compliments you very much. Now I want to make this dress in stripes!!!! It’s a very simple pattern with endless possibilities!!

    • Tasia February 25, 2013 at 3:14 pm #

      It would be great in stripes! On the Colette shop site, the model’s version is in stripes and it looks great, very summery casual.

  27. Karen Helm February 25, 2013 at 1:20 pm #

    That fabric is perfect for that style and very effective with the fuller skirt. Aren’t classic dresses just the best?? It’s beautiful and it looks lovely on you!

    • Tasia February 25, 2013 at 3:13 pm #

      Yup, you can’t go wrong with a classic style dress! It will look fashionable for years and years.

  28. Sarai February 25, 2013 at 1:22 pm #

    It looks amazing! It’s like a dark version of the blue rose one I made, which is so cool! Like day and night: http://www.coletterie.com/sewing-challenges/palette-challenge-electric-blue-hazel

    I am so itching to make the Minoru you sent me, especially after seeing a rain jacket with a liberty print lining recently. I have so many ideas for it!

    • Tasia February 25, 2013 at 3:12 pm #

      Thank you! It is totally like the night version of your blue hazel! I like how you matched the print at the back seamlines, it looks great.

      I hope you have time to make the Minoru soon, Liberty lining would be so luxurious and make it extra-special!

  29. Sarah C February 25, 2013 at 2:31 pm #

    Loving this! The fabric is gorgeous and the cut of the dress is perfect!

  30. Carol February 25, 2013 at 2:42 pm #

    really cute. Great colors on you.

  31. Gillian February 25, 2013 at 5:49 pm #

    The colours suit you so well! And I like how you can make the dress work for both summer and winter…great idea.

  32. Amy February 25, 2013 at 6:20 pm #

    Beautiful. I love how to added your own little flair to make it fit into your favorite silhouette. That’s something I need to figure out how to do as I’m working on a garment – add little tweaks to make it perfect for me.

    • Tasia February 27, 2013 at 5:08 pm #

      It’s just practice! I think – what do I like about this style? (The bodice detailing, the simplicity, the pockets) And what would make it even better for me? (Fuller skirt, a fabric that feels like me). I still get things wrong sometimes and create projects that aren’t ‘me’ – you win some, you lose some!

  33. Kessem February 26, 2013 at 2:20 am #

    I love this! the colors are so vibrant and the border print is gorgeous!

  34. TMachan February 26, 2013 at 8:07 am #

    I was thinking about the bra strap slip – one thing I like to do to my dress/shirts straps is hand stich in a little tail and clasp to hold the bra strap right where it will be covered (usually at the top of my shoulder, but an inch or two back). At the same time, it keeps the dress/shirt strap up on my shoulder right where I like it. It takes a little bit of time, but then you never have to worry about your bra strap peaking out. :)

    • Tasia February 27, 2013 at 5:03 pm #

      That’s a very good idea! I’ll try wearing it and if the strap slips regularly, I can give it the fix you recommended. Thanks!

  35. Sandra February 26, 2013 at 12:17 pm #

    I love the colour, really pretty. I agree it could be an any season dress!

  36. Pauline February 26, 2013 at 12:17 pm #

    The dress is amzing and the colour looks so good an you! I am sure this will be one of those dresses you reach for during spring and summer without even thinking about it. The fabric is so beautiful it doesn’t need anything else, just that nic blue belt (or maybe a black patent one for a change). Congrats!

  37. Jessica February 26, 2013 at 12:18 pm #

    This is so cute! I bought the pattern months ago but haven’t done anything with it yet. Thanks for the inspiration :)

  38. sarah February 26, 2013 at 7:25 pm #

    such a pretty dress on such a pretty lady! love the fabric.

  39. velosewer February 27, 2013 at 2:39 pm #

    This works really well on you Tasia. I would never have thought to make the oversized skirt for a 50′s look.

    • Tasia February 27, 2013 at 4:58 pm #

      Thanks! I can imagine anything with a full 50′s skirt – this one I only enlarged a little bit, so it wouldn’t be too far off the original look. It’s much more ‘me’ than the original skirt!

  40. Truly Myrtle February 28, 2013 at 1:06 am #

    Haven’t made Hazel but I’m loving yours! The colours are divine on you – fabulous fabric choice!

  41. Jo February 28, 2013 at 11:52 am #

    It’s just gorgeous. I’m in love with floral prints. I’m surprised you didn’t need to make a bust adjustment since Colette is drafted for larger cup sizes. Maybe that’s why the darts are a bit pointy?
    Anyway, you are so right, it’ll look fabulous in winter AND summer! :D

    • Tasia February 28, 2013 at 1:41 pm #

      Thanks! I know, I didn’t find it overly roomy in the bust area when I made the muslin.. it could have something to do with the pointiness so I’ll revisit the fit for future versions. My Chantilly is quite generous in the bust with all those gathers and the Parfait muslin was the most snug of all! It’s a good example of how design ease can affect fit. All three dresses are the same size, but cut to fit the body differently based on the designer’s vision.

  42. tracy lucas March 7, 2013 at 1:44 pm #

    Love the dress, gorgeous fabric. I hadn’t thought about enlarging the skirt piece on this pattern, it looks great and would work better for me. Thanks for the tip.

Trackbacks/Pingbacks

  1. What I Made ~ Black and White Striped Hazel | Blanca Pate - March 25, 2013

    [...] the skirt was a bit too short, and too constricting for my taste. So I took Tasia’s advice to make the skirt fuller and longer by cutting a larger size skirt, and it worked! I went up to a size 10 in the skirt (the bodice is a size 4), which added about two [...]

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