Happy Monday everyone! Today I’m going to show you how I hand-picking a zipper, on my Picnic Dress. I used a combination of Gertie’s tutorial and my own experience, since I’ve handpicked a few zippers earlier this year. 
If you’re just joining us now, here are links to the first few posts on this dress:
- Next up: The Picnic Dress
- Gathering an Edge Using Machine Stitches
- Understitching: A Step-by-Step Demo
- Sewing a Waist Stay in a Full-Skirted Dress
So, back to hand-picking the zipper. First off, I love this technique! I find it equally as strong as a machine-stitched zipper, and I love the control you have over the zipper placement. It’s easier to line up seams this way, too.
Hand-pick your zipper following the steps below:
First, prepare the opening for the hand-picked zipper. This can be as simple as serging or zigzagging the edges.
In my case, I finished the skirt opening by sewing it to the lining and turning right-side out. (I explained a bit more on how I did this on the Twin Spruce Dress here.)
I serged the bodice back opening edges:
I also turned under the facing edges on the bodice and stitched them, turning right side out for a clean finish. This gives such nice top edges and corners, too!
Now you’re ready to insert the zipper.
Take your zipper and unzip it a couple of inches. Turn the top edge under as shown in the photo below.
Line up the top edge of the dress with the folded edge of the zipper:
Pin through the dress and the zipper tape:
Continue pinning all the way along the zipper opening. Unzip the zipper as you go. 
Once you reach the bottom of the zipper, zip it up! This will make sure that your edges meet, when you pin the right side of the zipper to the dress.
Starting back at the top, turn under the top edge of the other side of the zipper. Pin it to the top edge of the dress, making sure that the top edges line up. 
Pin all the way down the right side of the dress. Yay! We’re ready to start hand-sewing now.
Thread a hand-sewing needle with thread, doubling it and tying a knot at the end.
Now, start at the top of the zipper, looking at the inside of the dress. You’ll see the turned-under zipper tape. We’re going to tack that part down so it doesn’t stick out, before we go up and down the length of the zipper.
After the extra tape has been tacked down at the side, continue tacking along the top edge. Be careful not to catch any of the bodice front fabric in your tacking, just the facing!
Ok, we finally get to start the actual hand-picking now! Poke your needle through to the right side of the dress, about 1/4″ down from the top edge, and 1/4″ in from the centre back opening.
Now, make a tiny, tiny backstitch in the zipper tape – this is also called a prickstitch! The backstitch part that shows should be super small, and the part where the needle comes back out through the fabric should be about 1/4″ away from the first hole.
And repeat! Continue making backstitches like above, or prickstitches if you like, spacing them about 1/4″ apart.
This is what the inside of your zipper will look like – large stitches along the zipper tape. It’s normal! The outside is the tidy part.
Keep handstitching all the way to the bottom of the zipper.
Once you reach the bottom, zip up the zipper a little ways. Make your last backstitch across the zipper, instead of continuing down. (This is hard to put into words, look at the photo below for a better explanation!)
Now, start working up the zipper, towards the top of the dress opening. I like to only zip up the zipper for an inch or two, so I can get my hand in there to hold the edges together.
This is how I’m holding the garment with my left hand. (I’m stitching with my right.) Sometimes I think it helps to see how people are actually holding their sewing projects, instead of just seeing the hands-free photos…
Keep going, all the way back up to the top. I like the hand-picked zipper method because it’s easy to line up the seam! You can ease the fabric into the zipper as needed to really make sure the seamlines line up. Mine are only off by a fraction of an inch – once I press the zipper it should steam nicely into place.
When you get close to the top, check how much fabric is left between where you’ve stitched and the top edge. Now is your chance to ease or stretch. Ease in any extra fabric by pushing just a touch of extra fabric into each backstitch, if there’s too much fabric compared to the zipper tape. Stretch the fabric just a tiny bit between each stitch if needed, if the zipper tape is longer than the fabric left.
(Does this make sense? You can’t unpin that top pin, or your top edges won’t line up! You have to make it work below the top edge.)
Once you get to the top, poke the needle through all layers to the wrong side of the garment. We’re going to tack down the extra zipper tape again at this edge.
All tacked down. No floppy or escaping zipper tape on our dress, no way!
All done! Give the opening a light press or steam and you’re ready to move on to the next step on your dress.
Here’s the lovely, tidy finished zipper:
Here’s another quick peek at the inside stitching:
And here’s a full-length shot of the zipper:
What do you think – would you ever try this? Do you already hand-pick some of your zippers? Did this tutorial scare you, or make it seem easy? I hope some of you who’ve never done zippers this way are encouraged to give it a try!
I’ve hand sewn in zippers before, but not this way. I agree that it makes it easier to match seams and what-not. Might have to give this method a go, it seems simple and straight forward enough.
That made it look really easy! I’ve seen hand picked zippers mentioned a lot, but have never really known how it’s done. Now that you’ve de-mystified it for me, I think I could give it a shot.
One thing I’ve never been too sure of is what the advantage is over a machine sewn zipper. Is it easier than fiddling with a zipper foot on the machine, or is it more to do with the look of the finish? More authentic when sewing vintage?
Great tutorial! I will try this method next time.
I have a skirt that needs some reworking (it’s a little big in the waist) and I’ve been planning to try handpicking the zipper all along! I really like the idea of being able to control the fabric and the zipper placement better.
thank you for this tute! i totally needed this!!! i have been procrastinating finishing this ruffled Cynthia Rowley dress for weeks because of the dumb zipper!!! i think i can handle it now!!!
~selina
This is great! I am definitely trying this on the dress I’m working on right now. I have a terrible time machine sewing zippers. I never keep the stitching line even from the opening and I think that is the quickest way to make a garment look really sloppy.
Great tutorial Tasia!
Q: Is the aim to align edge of the dress over the zipper as you prick-stitch it… so that the zipper “teeth” cannot be seen once the zip is done-up/closed please? (I.e. to somewhat emulate the effect of an invisible zipper?).
Also, to stop the zip from unravelling when you’re wearing it – will you be finishing the top of the zipper with a hook & eye, or a hook & thread-bar please?
Great photos, thanks for the info. I think I will still use invisible zippers, because they are
so “zippy” to put in and hide from view.
But maybe for a vintage style, if I ever get around to one :)
I am a huge fan of handpicking my zippers – when I put in a zipper by machine I never get a nice straight line, even with the zipper foot. Hand-picking is amazingly strong – although, i will say I put in a zipper by hand on a pair of trousers. Not such a great idea for me!! And I find this way easier than putting in an invisible zip (i’m not sure why invisible zips are so hard for me!!)
I love the look of a centered hand-picked zipper – like what Tasia did here! I usually do lapped zippers when I’m putting on the side of a dress or shirt, but love the look of the centered zip on a skirt! Yay!
Tasia – your attention on how to make sure the top of the zipper is aligned is great!
Lovely job! One more plus to the hand-done zipper – when sewn on a heavier fabric, such as a wool, the stitching almost disappears.
Fantastic tutorial – very helpful and something that I intend to try with my next zipper as I hate invisible zippers!
Awesome tutorial! I’m planning a handpicked zipper on my next garment. I was wondering if if you could possibly post a picture of the bottom of the zipper. I don’t think I quite get the picture (no pun intended!)
Tasia, great instruction. Of course, the dress is beautiful. I think certain clothing is truly enhanced by a hand-picked zipper. I have seen tiny little beads attached to the pick stitch as well and the result is stunning. Great for party dresses. I have only done a few, mostly in heavier fabrics and the stitches do disappear. The only thing I do a little different is that I stitch each side from the top down. I work the left side, then tie off. Then I go to the top on the right and work down on that side. I have the zipper closed for the first 4 or 5 stitches ( a little fiddling needed with the hands required) then open it to finish. I find it easier to keep the top neckline even this way and ease on the way down.
thank you thank thank you for this tutorial, I am never ever satisfied with my zip insertions and often end up doing them two or three times and still end up unhappy. I hand sew them in but i havent kept the pins in at the top, going to try this method.
Very Helpful :-)
I just did my first picked lapped zipper, and really loved the method. I’m not sure I have steady enough handsewing though for a perfectly centered picked zipper.
Oh, and pretty, pretty dress!!
I love the close-up photos you post with your tutorials, they are just like in a sewing book! I love a hand picked zipper myself, especially a lapped handpicked zipper, because it’s so much easier for the lapped application than doing it by machine.
Great tute, doll! I was thinking this might be a fun, new thing to do (since I’m kind of dorky about loving to hand sew!), and this made it look SO easy. Thanks for the step-by-steps and the pix. They’re incredibly helpful!
Congratulations on this tutorial – it’s absolutely, hands-down amazing. I know how time consuming it can be to take photos of each and every step like this – you’ve created an invaluable resource!
Oh, and your dress is gorgeous – the fabric is fantastic, and the dress pattern complements it perfectly! :)
http://www.habitatclothing.com.au/blog
Beautiful dress and zipper application! I’ve been meanign to try this technique… I must try it on the next dress I sew! Thanks for sharing!!
Thanks for posting this! I have a plan to make a dress in the next couple of months that specifically calls for a hand-picked zipper in the pattern, and I know that I’m going to be referring to this post for sure.
Also, I’m getting caught up on blog posts and saw your recent one about your job–I’m sorry to hear that you lost it, but your positive attitude towards it is admirable. And I’m hoping that better things will come your way very soon!
I’ve started handpicking all my zippers – I figure, what with all the swearing and ripping I tend to do when inserting zippers by machine, that the time investment is about equal, but this way is a MUCH more pleasurable process and gives a nicer finished product! Thanks for the tutorial though :-) … I can never quite get my two sides to match up, and this might be why :-P.
Oooo, this is a great tutorial. Thanks for taking the time to put it together! I really don’t like machine-stitching zippers, but I have never hand-picked one. This is what I will do on my next zippered project.
I love this effect and I think it’s very elegant. Furthermore, I think it’s easier than putting in a zipper with the machine. You have more control. (Not that I’ve done this yet but, since the coat, I have a whole new perspective on the hand stitching.)
Great tutorial! I actually use that stitching technique to hem my stuff but I guess it isn’t meant for that…just wondering though, you stitch in the middle of the zipper tape while, from what I understand, you are supposed to sew as close to the edge as possible with a machine – are there times when the machine method is better or does this work for everything?
ooh – now i’m starting to get it! and the picks disappear in heavier fabrics like wool? now i know what i’m doing for the exposed zipper in my vogue 1151 in a sweater knit! thanks for the tutorial! i’d been worrying about that zip!
This tutorial is fantastic. I have hand-picked a zipper in a couture sewing class – but have forgotten all about it and am ready to do one next week – hurray for your tutorial – it is pristine – I especially like how you show you are holding the fabric!
Thank you so much! I have been wanting to try this for a while, but did not feel confident I would do it right. Your tutorial was the best I’ve seen, and I DEFINITELY will try it now on my next project! Thanks again!
I usually prefer the clean finish of invisible zips, but this looks adorably vintage on your lovely dress, so you might have me doing a handpicked zip one day!!
Excellent tutorial!
Your posts are always great, but lately I feel like we’re on the same wavelength! I’ve been dying to try a hand-picked zipper lately but was unsure how to do it properly, and your tutorial made me realize that it’s definitely something I can tackle. And I, too, have experienced professional upheval lately, and I have so admired your attitude about being laid off. Though it can be hard, I’m making my situation work day by day in whatever ways I can, so it’s heartening to see your committment to doing the same. A talented girl like you definitely can’t be kept down- I’m looking forward to your patterns and more great tutorials!
Thanks for the instructions – I’ve always wondered how this was done. I’m not sure if I’ll ever try it (I’m somewhat obsessed with invisible zips), but I’ll definately send it to a few of my friends who are just starting out. I remember when I first started sewing putting in a zip was my biggest fear (in fact I used to drive an hour to my parent’s place & get my mum to do it I was so petrified!). This tutorial would have been a massive help to me then & probably would have helped me get over my irrational fear. In the end the thing that did it was I had a project that I had to complete & driving to my parents wasn’t an option, so I forced myself to learn from a you-tube video to put in an invisible zip & since then I haven’t looked back I love them!
I’ve never sewn a handpicked zipper before, but I’m certainly giving it a try on my next zippered project! You made it look so easy I’m all excited about trying it out.
And of course the dress is just stunning!
Wonderful tutorial and exactly what I need right now. I have to put a new zipper in a vintage black sequined flapper dress and I’ve been putting off doing it until now. Hand picking the zipper will work perfectly and today is the day I do it.
Thanks so much!!!
Great tutorial! I will have to try this particular method for hand-stitching zippers. It looks wonderful.
oh i usually dread inserting zippers, but now i want to try this method…things might actually line up correctly! thank you!
Thanks everyone who said this was a great tutorial! :)
Now to the questions…
Strength: from my experience, this zipper is equally as strong as a machine-stitched zipper. Patty said to beware of this application on pants, but on skirts and dresses it’s fine.
Lining up the edges: Yes, the goal is to make the edge of the dress line up with the edge of the teeth, so it looks fairly invisible. But that’s why I did up the zipper, if you try and line it up while the zipper is open, you might overcompensate and have the edges too close together. (I’ve done that before!)
Hook and eye: No hook and eye at the top on this one. I made the zipper go right to the top! (Confession: I hate sewing on those hook and eyes, or hook and thread loops. I don’t know why, I just avoid it!)
Why to use this method: If you prefer the look of the tiny little prickstitches? If you want to be extra-sure your seamlines line up and you’re not as confident doing it by machine? If you have say, a crazy wild print with a lot of colour v ariations and picking one colour of machine-stitching would be hard? If you like hand-sewing? (I do, sometimes!)
Oh and, I liked the suggestion of starting from the top and working down on one side, and then starting back up at the top on the other side. I’m going to try that next time!
I hope I got all the questions! Thanks all for the comments :)
It’s a great tutorial, and I will definitely try this for my next project. The only thing is that I want my dress to be fully lined, and I guess I have to sew the zipper first and then attach the lining. Love the detailed photos!
What a lovely tutorial, very clear and well made with good photos. I’ve always dreaded putting in zippers, there’s always some detail that goes wrong, very frustrating! So I’m definitely gonna try this, thank you for sharing!
zipper success! I just used your tutorial to handpick an exposed zipper into a sweater knit dress. It definitely took some time, but with some patience, it was a anxiety-free and enjoyable experience (zipper into knit on machine = ack!!!, plus i enjoy hand-stitching and that feeling that i’m really pulling out all of the stops for a special garment). I also used your staytape tutorial to stabilize the openings with india tape (our beloved dressew doesn’t carry staytape). I chose india over twill because it’s nice and light.
Yay Alice – zipper success! That’s fantastic! I like the feeling that I’m pulling out all the stops for a project, too. So glad to hear that not only did your zipper work out, but you *enjoyed* the process!!
Thanks so much for this tutorial! I just used it on Simplicity 2512, a high-waisted skirt, and it worked great. I used an invisible zipper and I think it worked the same as a regular one would. Thanks again!
Thank you for your great posts!! These tutorials are so helpful to me and I catchstitched the facing to my lining, sewed a waist stay and did a handpicked zipper!! I am delighted with how great it came out and I’ll probably never to a machine inserted zipper again. Thanks to your great explanations it was very very easy.
I posted a review about the dress I made on PatternReview and inserted links to your page .. I hope you don’t mind
http://sewing.patternreview.com/cgi-bin/readreview.pl?readreview=1&reviewnum=58156
@Thea: Hi Thea, of course I don’t mind! So glad the tute was helpful. That’s how I feel about zippers, I never want to do a machine-stitched zipper again.. Your dress is lovely!
I love to sew by hand, this is a relaxing activity for me. So I keep all my hand stitching to sew on work days’ evenings. This is why I always handpick my zippers until I have discovered this method. I also like the fact that I have more control (less puckers).
This made me recall a lavender silk dress my grandmother got from I. Magnin’s. It had french knots along each side of the back zipper. Just thinking about it makes me nuts.
Thanks for the excellent tutorial! I’ve always been scared of doing hand-sewing on something that seems like it needs to be so sturdy, but your instructions made it seems really doable. I tried it for my most recent dress and while I’m not convinced that this is my favorite zipper insertion method ever, I do feel like I learned an important skill. I really appreciate your taking the time to show us all these pictures!
http://cationdesigns.blogspot.com/2011/07/late-sew-weekly-betsey-johnson-floral.html
Thank you, I just sewed a zip into my new skirt and it was so easy after looking at your tutorial, and very successful!!
I’ve saved this tutorial for the chance to use it and I’ m thrilled with the results!! Thank you!! Hand picked zippers for me from here on out!
Do you have a printer friendly version? I’m a beginner sewer and I’m trying to learn all I can. Thank you, cathy
Hi Cathy! No, there isn’t a special printer-friendly version of this blog post. You could try printing it out if you want, if that helps! With hand-sewing you might find it’s possible to sew in front of the computer and follow along with the instructions. Good luck!
Hi Tasia, just letting you know and hope u don’t mind that I used one of your images from this post for my post on handpicked zippers (http://www.sewmelove.com/2012/11/goodbye-invisible-zippers-hello.html)
:)
Of course – no problem at all as long as you mention the source!
PS. your zipper looks great! My favourite method as it always looks good and it’s easy to replace if you ever need to.
Tasia:
Your hand sewn zipper was very clear and easy to understand. I appreciate all of the teaching you do on your site. It’s one of the things that keep me coming back week after week.
I visited Canada once in the Red Deer area between Edmunton and Calgary. You don’t intersperse your sentences with “eh” like those people did. :-)
Lora
Tasia:
Your hand sewn zipper was very clear and easy to understand. I appreciate all of the teaching you do on your site. It’s one of the things that keep me coming back week after week.
I visited Canada once in the Red Deer area between Edmunton and Calgary. You don’t intersperse your sentences with “eh” like those people did. :-)
Lora
My finished zippers look like this…. I put them in on my machine and don’t use a zipper foot. I just baste the seam closed, sew in the zipper, and pull the basting out. My zipper is in even, neat, and hidden. This is how I was taught by my mother many years ago.
This is great tutorial Tasia! I never knew there’s such a thing! So much better than using what ive been doing - machine sewing zipper to main fabric, sanwiching the zipper in mid with lining, and handsewing lining close onto zipper. Main dress Can get messy, and i always preferred the handsewing part inside.. Plus sucks if zipper need to be changed as u said.
Exactly – if the zipper breaks, it’s easy to remove it and hand-stitch in another one. For anything that you plan to wear for a long time, it’s a great method to use!
awesome tutorial…will adapt to lapped zip which is what i need for an inseam, side seam application…well done!